Stan4d
New Member
I did not notice any problems with the motor sprocket. I only found the rear sproket problem and that solved it. Sorry but I cannot help with truing the motor sprocket.
Chain pop off issue, please help solve mystery.
- Thread starter dmfelicia
- Start date
AussieSteve
Active Member
So, today I tried 410 chain on the countershaft sprocket. It doesn't fit. The sprocket is too wide, so the chain can't seat fully. (It fits the LHS jackshaft sprocket like a glove, though.)
I'd still like to change to 410. It works for a lot of people and fits much better in the casings, so I think that I need to find a supplier that sells a sprocket suitable for 410.
Either that or buy another sprocket the same and grind the sides of the teeth until the chain fits nicely. (That's probably what I'll do.)
... Steve
I'd still like to change to 410. It works for a lot of people and fits much better in the casings, so I think that I need to find a supplier that sells a sprocket suitable for 410.
Either that or buy another sprocket the same and grind the sides of the teeth until the chain fits nicely. (That's probably what I'll do.)
... Steve
dmfelicia
New Member
Steve I am sorry to hear that the 410 chain didn't work out. Have you tried all the other solutions in post #20?
My issue was fixed. The reason the chain was popping was the rear sprocket was untrue. I suspected this was the case because the chain would become periodically tight and loose as the wheel spun. I confirmed this by taking off the chain and spinning the rear wheel to see the wobble in the sprocket. I fixed it by first using a pencil to mark where the sprocket was bowed out (once I confirmed that the bowed out section was causing the problems). The way I did this was by spinning the wheel and the holding a pencil close to the side of the spinning sprocket, if you get just close enough it will only mark the section that is bowed. Then I tightened the bolts along those sections.
The other problem I found was in the alignment of my tensioner, it was angled too inward causing alignment problems. You should check this also. Hope some of these solutions help.
Cheers,
David
My issue was fixed. The reason the chain was popping was the rear sprocket was untrue. I suspected this was the case because the chain would become periodically tight and loose as the wheel spun. I confirmed this by taking off the chain and spinning the rear wheel to see the wobble in the sprocket. I fixed it by first using a pencil to mark where the sprocket was bowed out (once I confirmed that the bowed out section was causing the problems). The way I did this was by spinning the wheel and the holding a pencil close to the side of the spinning sprocket, if you get just close enough it will only mark the section that is bowed. Then I tightened the bolts along those sections.
The other problem I found was in the alignment of my tensioner, it was angled too inward causing alignment problems. You should check this also. Hope some of these solutions help.
Cheers,
David
Stan4d
New Member
I have been advised to pin the adjuster bracket.....in the process of doing it. If that baby slips into the spokes it would be nothing but bad. I plan to drill a small hole and use a screw to hold it in place. Anyother ideas on how to pin it would be welcome.
yeah that's what I did, just remember that thats a fairly high load area of your frame, so the smaller the better.. just needs to be big enough to hold it in place.
PS - I figured that the strongest way to do it was with a narrow but long bolt (with a nylon locking nut to stand the strong vibration (or maybe use some loctite)), which pierced straight through to the other side, to help distribute the load kind of thing.
PS - I figured that the strongest way to do it was with a narrow but long bolt (with a nylon locking nut to stand the strong vibration (or maybe use some loctite)), which pierced straight through to the other side, to help distribute the load kind of thing.
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AussieSteve
Active Member
It's not really a problem, either way, David.
My chain never comes off. I'm running a shift kit, so the chain only has to cover about 6". I don't have a rear sprocket on the LHS, so none of the tensioner/sprocket alignment issues.
It is just a little lumpy as it runs, due to the poor fit of 415H chain on the front sprocket.
Just the same, for the sake of getting things right, I'm still going to buy a second countershaft sprocket and make it fit the 410 chain.
I went through all of the alignment and truing problems some time ago. It's near impossible to get the chain to run evenly without tightening and loosening as the rear sprocket rotates.
Drilling and 'pinning' the tensioner will stop it swinging inwards, but you can't re-position it in the future to take up slack without drilling another hole, weakening the structure even further.
What I did was to grind a cross-hatch pattern on the contact areas of the clamp bracket, then bolted it on without rubber or tape under it. (It never moved again.) Then I twisted and bent the tensioner until it aligned perfectly.
I learned early on not to use insulation tape under the clamp - the adhesive acts like a lubricant when warm, allowing the bracket to slide.
... Steve
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dmfelicia
New Member
That is such a good idea Steve, and it will make good use of my dremel, thanks!
David
David
Stan4d
New Member
ditto.
