2 stroke bike options?

[Frankfort MB's]

Sweet looking build!!! Slam the seat, turn handle bars upside down and you got a board track racer lol

 

[bakaneko]

What do you mean broke a new chain? Order another chain but you can always replace a link if you have a chain breaking tool and a vice or a substitute to lock the pin in. I am sure you have to have links from when you cut the chain initially. I replaced a few links without a chain breaking tool and only a hammer, screw driver, large pliers, and a hose clamp (to mimic a vice with pliers).

Also, take it easy on the bike and chain, peddle from a dead stop, and then let engine take over or loosen up the chain. To do so you will need to move the chain tensioner as far back towards the rear sprocket as possible and the roller as low as possible. I have about 2-3 inch of play on mine; it really helps with peddling when the engine isn't engaged.

Glad to see you got all your stuff out there and have her rollin

 

[Island Racer]

Hey hey hey, thanks for the fast response guys .... yeah just went to look for a better quality chain all around but NO LUCK YET ...

the chain tensioner is nice and close to the rear sprocket... I'll take a picture once the chain .. maybe she was to tight ( less then 1" ) and the link broke .... I think they sell better roller with springs here ...

Ok I will try to find a new and better quality chain & link

Yeah I'll give the fabrication of chain link a go .... I ordered a bunch of spares as above old thread BUT I cannot find the extra link I ordered

Grrrrr

Great info guys....

once she's up and running again "I'll be back" on the road ....
Ha ha ha .

These bikes are FAST .....

EDIT : When I peddle away and release the clutch I make it "slip for 2 second" so the engine is not working to hard .... do you guys do the same ??

 

[HeadSmess]

i give that engine mount about an hour. maybe two if lucky.

 

[Island Racer]

i give that engine mount about an hour. maybe two if lucky.

Gonna make a new engine mount up front , good eye ....

 

[Island Racer]

What do you mean broke a new chain? Order another chain but you can always replace a link if you have a chain breaking tool and a vice or a substitute to lock the pin in. I am sure you have to have links from when you cut the chain initially. I replaced a few links without a chain breaking tool and only a hammer, screw driver, large pliers, and a hose clamp (to mimic a vice with pliers).

Also, take it easy on the bike and chain, peddle from a dead stop, and then let engine take over or loosen up the chain. To do so you will need to move the chain tensioner as far back towards the rear sprocket as possible and the roller as low as possible. I have about 2-3 inch of play on mine; it really helps with peddling when the engine isn't engaged.

Glad to see you got all your stuff out there and have her rollin

OK fixed the chain nicely... drilled a hole into a woodblock/ drove the pins of the extra chain out with " a pin drive tool " then connected all the new bits and CENTRE PUNCHED the pins nicely in place

Went online bought 1 extra chain and 30 connections .... also a chain-splitter.

It's all GOOD did another half hour on the bike

Now must start reading about clutch adjustment.... if I pull the clutch in then it is still half engaged.....

 

[bakaneko]

Feed that cat please! I have a tuxedo cat too.

The bike should be fully in neutral when you lock the clutch using the clutch lever silver nob or spring (depending on your kit). Here is how to adjust the clutch. Since your engine is new, I think you might just have to adjust the clutch lever and bar area and not open the case. Also if your case uses + or - screw bolts you might think about replacing them with hex or regular bolts. The screw bolts are horrible.

Remember to oil your chain now and then. For 4-strokes, it is easy I always clean and oil my chain when I change the oil every 100-150 miles. Some guys on here have stock chains with 5k miles on it or more.

 

[Island Racer]

Feed that cat please! I have a tuxedo cat too.

The bike should be fully in neutral when you lock the clutch using the clutch lever silver nob or spring (depending on your kit). Here is how to adjust the clutch. Since your engine is new, I think you might just have to adjust the clutch lever and bar area and not open the case. Also if your case uses + or - screw bolts you might think about replacing them with hex or regular bolts. The screw bolts are horrible.

Remember to oil your chain now and then. For 4-strokes, it is easy I always clean and oil my chain when I change the oil every 100-150 miles. Some guys on here have stock chains with 5k miles on it or more.

QUOTE
TUXEDO CAT
UNQUOTE
now that is funny, never heard that phrase, ha ha

OK Clutch is good now, yes I only did as you sugested "" adjust the clutch lever and bar area "" .... thanks for the clear VID, that is a nice cable stopper .... I'll look for it ... I also see how the engine could fit into my frame better ... and then the 2 chain guards will fit .... good stuff .... yeah I did grease up some stuff already ...

I changed most bolt & nuts for stainless ... the "jug" and all looks nicer too

I seen a thread about carburetors I put a aftermarket one on ... but i couldn't make it run properly, so I put back the sock and she is running " ok " but cuts off when " idle " so i need to read-up on that too ...