Pusher Trailer (new build part 2)

I got the pipe fitted & mounted today. I found some 1" flex pipe at Lowes for $1.98
& if it holds up for awhile it would be well worth the money.
Here are the latest pics of it nearly completed. I haven't test driven it under gas power yet. I'm waiting to fully brace the frame structure & the Quick Steel putty to dry for a few days.
-lowracer-
 

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Ok,
I finally got to take it for a few test drives today & came up wit a few observations.
1) Its too light, the rear drive wheel bounces around, there isn't enough weight on it to keep the tire from spinning. When I goose it, it just spins the tire too easily.
2) Handling over 25 mph is scary... (tail wants to wag the dog)
3) I dont like pusher trailers.
So, I guess I should have quit while I was ahead after making the 1st one & coming to the conclusion that it wasnt for me. Now I go & build a better mousetrap only to realize it still isn't for me.
LOL...story of my life...
-Lowracer-
 
Well,
I now got a bunch of aluminum to use for my next project.
I was thinking of using the pillow block bearings with 1/2" shaft & one of my extra BMP rollers to create a pulley driven rear friction drive with the engine center mounted & using the angle aluminum in 4 planes to create a channel & hook it up to the seatpost mounted stem/hub for the up & down. Hmmmmmm
-lowracer
 
Ok,
I finally got to take it for a few test drives today & came up wit a few observations.
1) Its too light, the rear drive wheel bounces around, there isn't enough weight on it to keep the tire from spinning. When I goose it, it just spins the tire too easily.
2) Handling over 25 mph is scary... (tail wants to wag the dog)
3) I dont like pusher trailers.
So, I guess I should have quit while I was ahead after making the 1st one & coming to the conclusion that it wasnt for me. Now I go & build a better mousetrap only to realize it still isn't for me.
LOL...story of my life...
-Lowracer-

Don't hate pushers because yours wasn't satisfactory.
If I didn't have the experience, I might think the following advice sounds exaggerated, nitpicky, narrowminded or similar, but mine work so well I have trouble understanding why pushers aren't far more popular.
My success with them was partly good luck. My first build was as minimal as possible. I wanted it lightweight and simple as possible with no welding involved. The tongue is just 2 pieces of bent 3/4" conduit which is low quality steel, but it worked fine and I'm sure it would have supported a 5 HP as well as its 3.5 HP engine. I haven't had wagging, bouncing or traction problems. Some fear jackknifing problems, but I know from long experience it is not likely to happen.
I have yet to see one that looks like a work of art, but otherwise they are a great way to motorize a bicycle. I just bought a Craiglisted brand new Robin-Subaru 5.7 HP engine I will use on my next pusher.
I suggest salvaging your build. It's still a prototype. Experiment til it works. You'll learn more that way.

The 'tail wags the dog' because your trailer is topheavy. I noticed you didn't respond to Rgvkid's advice to use a smaller wheel and lower the engine (referring to your first version). He's right. You need to keep more than half of the weight of the trailer below a line from the hitch to the ground contact point. The whole wheel is above that line on pushers, so the engine and the frame have to be far enough below that line to more than compensate. If the weight is low, the trailer will tend to remain upright from pendulum effect, so the stiffness of the u-joint hitch will not be as critical. Think of a heavily loaded wheelbarrow. It is topheavy by design. No pendulum effect. All the weight is above a line from your grip to the tire's ground contact patch. It is a struggle to keep it balanced and the farther it leans, the harder it is to straighten up.
You could almost get by without a u-joint hitch if the trailer (when attached to the bike) stood upright by itself due to pendulum effect. It's almost impossible to make a topheavy pusher behave acceptably. The further weight is displaced above that line, the more effect it has on destabilizing the trailer.
The large diameter wheel has a lot of lateral leverage against its axle, thus the torsional stiffness of the rest of the trailer. It's tough to counter all that by placing the engine and frame low enough. Your excess framework above the wheel and hitch adds to the problem. A hitch that was perfectly stiff torsionally would eliminate the problem, but that's difficult to achieve and unnecessary. Every steering correction you make to balance the bike displaces and leans the trailer left or right. Hitch flex allows the wheel to flop over a bit. A leaning wheel steers toward the lean so the trailer tracks off center until the torsion limit of the hitch tries to spring it back. Since the wheel is topheavy it then flops over the other way until the opposite torsion limit is reached, ad infinitum. The 'wagging tail' is an example of low frequency resonance. The wagging will be biased to the left or right if the engine is too far off center by weight. It is not only the hitch that would have to be torsionally inflexible, but the whole trailer.
Try having someone hold the bike upright for you by straddling the frame and stabilizing the seatpost as much as possible. Now push laterally on the top of your trailer wheel and take note of how much twist you can induce in your hitch-trailer combination. Now stand in front of your bike holding the handlebars and rock the bike left and right. You will see and feel the trailer lagging a bit with a springiness to it. You will find that rocking it at a certain frequency will produce the most exaggerated effect. That is your 'resonant frequency' and depends on how topheavy it is, and how torsionally flexible everything is from handlebars back. This topheaviness and torsional springiness is most of what causes the low frequency resonance we call 'the tail wagging the dog'. You will find a resonant frequency of wagging when moving that will show up at a certain speed depending on whether you're accelerating or not.
A smaller diameter wheel, when pushed laterally, can't twist the frame and hitch as much. Smaller wheels are usually fatter with stiffer sidewalls and don't need much pressure to support the relatively small weight of the trailer. Lower pressure in a wider tire absorbs bumps better so the trailer won't bounce as much if at all.
Most pushers I've seen here were overbuilt unnecessarily and often were topheavy requiring a very heavy duty, precisely fitted hitch. Loose tolerances allow them to flop or rock laterally. Another factor is good alignment of the trailer wheel to the back wheel of the bike. If the trailer is 'dogwalking', the same resonance problem can emerge, even if it is otherwise well balanced.
A trailer will bounce more if the engine is right over the wheel or very close to it. That's because the engine rises the whole height of the bump on the road. If the engine is mounted halfway from the tire to the seatpost hitch (class 2 lever), it will lift only half as high and half as fast, greatly reducing its tendency to launch itself in the air after hitting the bump. Those who placed their engines over the wheels to get more traction discovered they had less traction when the trailer was in the air half the time. The angle from the trailer tire contact patch to the seatpost helps with traction, especially if there is a bit of springiness in the bends of the tongue. Since the pusher is pushing upward toward the seatpost, it is lifting the bike to some degree. This of course presses the tire down an equal amount and only occurs when you need it. (when accelerating) I am fairly certain that most if not all pushers that push at axle height bounce a great deal more than they would with a seatpost hitch.
I'm sure there's something I wrote that is unclear. Please argue with me whether you've built one or not. The more clarity we can achieve here will help others make successful pushers. They are easy to build and work very well if a few principles are well understood.
 
Well,
I now got a bunch of aluminum to use for my next project.
I was thinking of using the pillow block bearings with 1/2" shaft & one of my extra BMP rollers to create a pulley driven rear friction drive with the engine center mounted & using the angle aluminum in 4 planes to create a channel & hook it up to the seatpost mounted stem/hub for the up & down. Hmmmmmm
-lowracer

lowracer, you are truly the mad scientist, lol. And of course, I mean it as a compliment.:devilish:
 
Dennis Becraft, what you have written is so very interesting!:bowdown:

If I could get away with running a push trailer in busy traffic, I'd do it.
 
Hi Gents -

The idea of a releasable pusher trailer has intrigued me for a few years myself. Now that I accumulated a few extra engines, I may try it. One particular design that I keep looking at can be seen at http://www.rqriley.com/b-pusher.htm .

It is a low profile wide-stance trailer (builder determines stance). When I get around to a gas-powered derivative, I would use a slotted live axle (with pillowblock bearings) and move the engine behind the axle to leverage more weight onto the wheels. Maybe run soft tires to reduce engine bounce. Use a centrifugal clutch and belt drive.

I prefer attaching the trailer tongue as low to the ground onto the bicycle as possible to minimize the trailer effect of pushing the bike around during cornering. So maybe a drop-down point halfway between rear bicycle axle and ground would work. Maybe place the bearings on the up-facing surface to lower the platform (and center of gravity) to the ground by almost three inches. On paved streets, neither of these modifications should be a problem. Gearing for 20 mph runs should be simple.

Now that we know the test results of Lowracer's design and the Bidwell Pusher has been around for a while, I suggest getting Mr Riley's book and give his design a try. I've had his book for five years and his design is looking more and more flexible as a detachable alternative to a fixed installation.

MikeJ
 
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Dennis,
I draw the line from hitch to ground contact patch & my engine was below that line. Maybe the problem was that the whole trailer weight including the engine was barely 10 lbs?
I was really hoping the trailer powered setup would be viable for me. Even when I kept the power low to keep the wheel from spinning out & bouncing, the same 'driving a tractor trailer' feeling was still there & I dont really care for that feeling on a bicycle. Not sure if the most well setup pusher trailer would minimize that feeling but I think it would still be there based on the physics of it all.
I'll be engineering a new rear mount for either a DIY friction drive or another v-belt drive for this bike.
-lowracer-
 
lowracer's pusher trailer

Thanks 5-7Heaven You could put a big red taillight on a stalk at the rear of the pusher for staking out your space on the street in town. Or make a styrofoam child to sit astraddle the trailer.:whistle:

MikeJ: Good luck trying to get the engine behind the axle and still have at least 10% tongue weight. That's what you need to avoid handling problems with a trailer. Google trailer design to verify what I'm saying. I've seen improperly loaded utility trailers go into a feedback situation of wagging increasingly until becoming totally unmanageable. The most recent was within the year when I barely missed getting broadsided by such a trailer that within a few seconds skidded increasingly left and right til it got itself and the pickup sideways on the road, then into a ditch. I stopped to investigate and found the heaviest items had been loaded over and behind the axle.
About 18 mos. ago I was hauling an ultralight airplane in a homemade trailer built to carry it. It is streamlined well, but the axle is too far forward. The plane fits in backwards so the heaviest part (engine) was over the wheels which might have worked, but the tailgate was designed to double as a loading ramp and was very heavy. The trailer was unmanageable til I bought bags of pea gravel to put in the front of the trailer to give it proper tongue weight. I intuitively understand why tail heaviness destroys trailer handling, but I can't figure out why adding the pea gravel up front tamed it down. Anyway, It's a fact of life. Be prepared to reposition your engine if it doesn't work out behind the axle. Let me know if & when you want to sell Riley's plans.

Lowracer: I like your stem/hub u-joint hitch. It's a clever construction. I like that you used aluminum angle. Now I know it's workable unless it contributes to the flexiness that is plaguing you. The small amount of weight far above that line has more deleterious effect than the engine weight slightly below that line can remedy. Remember your whole wheel is above that line as well as that superstructue you have there. The camera angle isn't perfectly level, but when I hold a straightedge on the first full length photo it appears very little of the engine is below the line. It looks a little better in the last photo.
Did you check for torsion like I suggested? What were your impressions?
A topheavy trailer fights leaning correctly around a curve. It always tries to fall to the left or right and is able to do that due to the slightest amount of flex or loose tolerances. The only place where flex is a good thing is vertically in the tongue. What I mean is a little flex that is equivalent to having a bit of suspension. A little bit goes a long way. My trailers get it from the curves in the 3/4" electrical tubing tongue and placement of the engine halfway between hitch and tire. Your design is strongest vertically, precisely where you could benefit from a little flex. If you were going for triangulation strength, it should have been to prevent the possibility of longitudinal twist.
I wish I knew what you meant about feeling like it's a tractor trailer. Mine handles the same as it does without the pusher; I just don't have to pedal.
Here's a 20 yr. old clip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjEgsKqfi74&feature=g-upl&context=G2afea5dAUAAAAAAAFAA[/URL]

If I had a lower gear ratio for hard acceleration, I can tell I might feel the trailer pushing the bike toward the outside of a curve, requiring me to lean a little against it, but it's certainly not an issue with 3.5 HP geared for 35 mph. I use one on a trike, but am gambling that I won't roll it by cornering too fast. They flip without much warning. I'm referring to the delta type; two wheels in back & one in front.
Too bad we don't have a video of pushers at an agreed upon speed on the same curvy, hilly, bumpy road to reveal the handling effects of different designs.
It concerns me that potential pusher builders might be deterred by prototypes that were abandoned too soon.
How else can you choose nearly any engine and drive train combination and build it without trying to squeeze it in or add it on to your bike. No welding is required. Use a lightweight, fast bike that you wouldn't or couldn't power otherwise. You're only adding a little bit of tongue weight to it. You don't have to dedicate any particular bike to it. Use it on any bike in your collection. All the noise, heat, gas, oil, exhaust and vibration are behind you at a safe distance.
I think the pusher subforum should be just as active as frame or rack mount. By now we should have custom bike/pusher combos that look good, like they have with motorcycle and hot rod trailer combos. We certainly have the talent here.
How about a pusher/pet carrier combination. I'm considering that for my next build. I've got a 55 lb. pup that freaks out unless I take him everywhere I go. He's fine alone in a car or truck though. He waits very patiently for me. I believe he would do the same while guarding his pusher while I run in the store for milk bones and a frisbee. His passenger module could be replaceable with a cargo bay for camping gear and other long haul accoutrements.
How about using a pusher to make a short range electric bike practical for long commutes? Cover the country miles with a fast pusher and secure it somewhere while you use battery power in town. Ideally you would want an electric bike that can freewheel as well as use regenerative braking. Do they exist?
Let's hear from some imaginative members about other development possibilities.
 
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Hi Dennis -

I have to agree with you about tongue weight from a passive trailer. Large trailers do get wigglely if pulled at high speeds when not loaded correctly. My intentions were to prevent wheel spin during acceleration. I remember Lowracer's design was too light for the engine's output power.

I assumed the rider weight on the rear wheel was far in excess of the tongue lift moment when the trailer was coupled to the bicycle. Hence, the rear wheel would have a near-full-weight on it at riding speeds.

I'd have to test my thoughts with a real trailer. To keep the wheels from spinning, maybe plain old additional dead weight would be needed. To keep from fishtailing, do as you say and add weight to the tongue with dead weight up close to the hitch point.

Thanks,
Mikej
 
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