Pusher Trailer (new build part 2)

[lowracer]

I said I'd never do it since I'm all about Keeping It Simple, but I am planning on installing a jackshaft.
The primary reason is to center the engine on its mount to perfectly balance the one-wheel trailer (secondarily to allow some gear ratio tuning). I'll use two v-belt pulleys on a 1/2" stainless steel shaft between two pillow block bearings & 4 shaft collars. I have some pics of a few of the items I ordered this morning.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

I received the wheelset & installed a new set of tires. The Rhyno lites are my favorite rims & super strong. My other MB aka 'The Beast' also has the same rims & they have made it unscathed with me over the years, 1st Mountain biking & now Motorbiking. Since I removed the old rear wheel I figured I'd true it up & mount another rim hoop to it for another v-belt drive option. I may just use this 26" wheel to drive the rear push trailer instead of the 650c setup I was planning on. I like the fatter tire selections. Now I'm just awaiting the aluminum & the jackshaft stuff I ordered to arrive. I took the bike unmotored for a few rides yesterday & today & really like the way it feels. Its a Chromoly dirt jumping frame with a heavy duty headtube/downtube gusset. I'm all about going heavy-duty considering it'll be capable of 50 mph.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

Here are a few shots of the rear 26" MTB 36 spoke drive wheel that will definitely be going on the pusher trailer. I found a throw away MTB wheel @ my local bike store. The hub & spokes were nasty, but all I wanted was the aluminum hoop. The cheap wide aluminum singlewall rims are best for v-belt drive. The belt fits nicely into the spoke bed. I clean up both surfaces that will be bonded together using a hand file & then some rubbing alcohol. I setup some JB Weld & smear it onto both bond surfaces. I get the rims onto eachother nice & even, then wipe away extra glue with a paper towel & rubbing alcohol. Lay it flat overnight & then I like to drill 3 holes thru & pop rivet (or bolt) them together for added security. I also used a tube of Quick Steel to add extra bonding along the inner seam running around the whole wheel. Quick Steel is a putty (similar to JB Weld) but not runny like JB Weld & it sets up quick. I've used it to repair many things from mirror stalks to a leaking crankcase to a muffler leak (awesome stuff). This is the 4th 'Lowracer Rim-2-Rim Pulley' I've built & all have been super durable w/ no failures.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

Did some more drawing today to get final design details worked out before the aluminum arrives. It will look more like this picture. By using a jackshaft to center the engine on the frame, I'll also be able to slide the engine further forward & keep the weight under the line that bisects the rear tire patch & the hitch attachment point. From what I've been reading, this should help handling.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

The aluminum arrived yesterday & guess what?
They sent me the wrong thickness angle aluminum.
Was supposed to be 1/4" thick & I got 1/8" thick.
The flat bar in the pic is correct @ 1/4".
I contacted my seller, took & sent a picture & the correct 20' of angle aluminum is on its way (again).
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

Ok, I got the correct aluminum last night & started measuring, cutting, drilling & bolting things together today. Now I think I'm going to mount the engine off-center & drive the wheel directly instead of using the pillow block bearings & jackshaft. I haven't mounted the engine yet, but there may be some space limitations. I will also cut small pieces of aluminum bar to complete the cross bracing lattice framework I've been planning. I did test it today under human power to see how it tracks & feels. Definitely an improvement over my 1st try at push trailers. Its very light & is barely noticeable behind me. Lets see how things feel once the engine is mounted & it is pushing instead of being pulled.
Here is a pic
-Lowracer

 

[lowracer]

Here are a few pics of the engine mocked up both mounted directly in the center w/ jackshaft & mounted off-center directly. I'm still on the fence which way to go here?
I also got my eye on this fuel tank that would mount perfectly up to the twin top rails & hold 4L (about a gallon). That would get me 130-150 miles per fill-up...
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

Made some real headway today getting the frame supports mostly done (still need to do the 'crane-like' criss crossing. Also got the pulleys, jackshaft & belt tension completed. Also made the throttle cable, having to resolder the end tip 3 times to get the length just perfect. Now I still need to get the exhaust dialed in with either some copper tubing from Lowes or some more of the flex pipe I've used in the past?
Here are a few pics.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

Here is a pic of the expansion chamber I'll be using. I added 2 store bought mufflers to quiet down this little screaming monster (Cag stage 2). I used Quick Steel putty to attach both mufflers. I've had great success using this putty in the past & wanna see how it holds up. I'll strap the muffler to the trailer frame for added safety.
-Lowracer-

 

[lowracer]

I installed the Maxxis Hookworm tires and Kenda Downhill tubes today.
OMG....these tubes are HUGE!!! When I took the package out of the mail box I couldn't believe how much it weighed. I eagerly opened it up to inspect the goods. The tubes are 2.25mm's thick. The Hookworms are 2.5 slicks & also super heavy duty. Mounted on the Sun Ryno Lite wheelset these wheels are looking FAT.
I'll take some pics tomorrow in the sunlight & post them up.
-Lowracer-