I keep having trouble with the motor torqueing itself back on the adjusting plate causing chain slippage. I even put lock washers on each bolt to no avail. A friend pointed out that lock washers are just to keep the nut tight and not made to stop lateral friction. Sure enough the lock washers were just pressed flat and letting everything slide. He hooked me up with what he called "bite washers". They are just washers with a sharp lip to bite into metal. That seems to have done the trick. Thought this might help someone. Always great info here.
Motor mount loosens
- Thread starter Sean
- Start date
Also known as serrated flange washers. You can also get serrated flange nuts that.do the same thing.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
I was going to suggest those nuts. I use them kn NY go kart and mini bike and they work great. They call them "whizz lock nuts" at my local hardware store
If I where you I'd replace all the bolts and nuts with something higher grade from the hardware store.
I'm in the process of doing that. All of the factory hardware in this rig is crap. I have also learned my lesson with buying ACE hardware stuff.
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Al Regresar
Well-Known Member
‘Ace is the place is the helpful hardware place.’I'm in the process of doing that. All of the factory hardware in this rig is crap. I have also learned my lesson with buying ACE hardware stuff.
SirLurksAlot
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No kidding. They used the cheapest components they could, on the phatmoto.I'm in the process of doing that. All of the factory hardware in this rig is crap. I have also learned my lesson with buying ACE hardware stuff.
Mine (2021 version) needed lots of lil stuff. But, my motor doesn't move around. Still using the stock motor mount bolts after 2yrs, too. They seem to be a bit better than the rest of the fasteners. Bolt heads are marked "8.8" and nylock-type nuts with serrations, and they lock well. Pita to align the engine with the countershaft, and the engine tries to walk out of alignment when tightening them. But once tight, my engine doesn't move around at all.
Sounds to me like you got bolts that aren't up to 'spec'.... Like maybe they ran low on metal the day they made that batch of chinesium. Haha. Kidding aside, you're on the right track in replacing yours with ace hdwe bolts, imo. I'd recommend replacing the oem #35 chain with something better quality, or you'll be readjusting engine position frequently as that chain stretches. Even a generic tractor supply chain is tons better, lasts longer and barely stretches at all.
They were the factory mounting bolts but they were getting worn out. The motor sliding was apparently my bad for using lock washers. That seems to be good now. Thanks for the heads up on the #35 chain I thought it seemed to be stretching. I got this amazon.com 35 chain because it claimed to be a racing chain. I do have a tractor supply store close so I'll try that. Phatmoto did a GREAT job with the Lifan motor and bike frame build. They just used total cheaply made peripherals so once you get pretty much everything else replaced, it's a very solid setup. I use mine every day about six miles round trip. Not a single problem with the motor. Still using the original 2018 magneto.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
IfnI can ever find a phatmoto for a good price, it's going to end up with 3hp flathead Briggs on it with a cvt.
SirLurksAlot
Active Member
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There is actually a cvt kit specifically made for the phatmoto (3rd party vendor) and it's oem lifan. Uses oem jackshaft etc. Iirc, it costs around $150.
COOL! Can you post a link?
