Latest build, learned from previous mistakes...

Money and shipping times are two reasons why. 50-70 usd for a good caliper (I like an avid bb7) plus another 20-30 usd for a rotor. When the rim brake will do the job at 15-20mph and you already have it ready to run, why not?
 
Money and shipping times are two reasons why. 50-70 usd for a good caliper (I like an avid bb7) plus another 20-30 usd for a rotor. When the rim brake will do the job at 15-20mph and you already have it ready to run, why not?
I used rim brakes on the LandRider for 10 years, I'm 250 lbs and live in the mountains. I used ebike pads. They're around double the price of stock pads that came with the bike.

If you're going down long grades bump brake. This braking technique will keep your rims from over heating and causing a wheel failure. One location where I live there's a STOP 🛑 sign at the bottom of a 30% grade hill thats over a ¼ mile long. So on the LR, I bump braked not allowing the bike to go faster than 15 mph going down hill.

Water is another issue to be aware of. Wet rims will greatly increase your Stopping distance. Have fun with your ride.
 
While I agree that the disc brakes should be used on the front that also assumes bikehorn has a disc brake mount on the front hub.

It isn't a small fortune to get the caliper, rotor and a 26 inch disc brake wheel (especially used on ebay and from local sellers) it is more than the free of using scrap to make a drop bolt.

Braking, followed by dialing in the fit of your bike are the most valuable upgrades in terms of how much better it makes the riding experience and cost effectiveness. It is always amazing how much better discs stop in the wet compared to rim brakes.

These tips apply to any kind of bike with any kind of handlebar. Getting things dialed in so you aren't stretched out or cramped up makes a world of difference.
 
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