Chainsaws,weedwhackers,snow blowers...oh my!

[go you good thing]

Great Idea

Alaskavan I think you have it!

The end is not straight but I could bend it till it is and thread it for a bolt or even just leave it as is (its actually a square hole) but put a small shaft or pin in instead.

Many thanks,

gygt.

 

[revelstone]

shaft

inside that hole is the screw to take the spinner off of the clutch. it turns counter clockwise. be careful what you put in there cuz one day you may want that off of there. in the mean time here's a picture of what member did. ( i collect pictures of these bikes. it's just to aid my feeble brain when i get stuck on how to do something. )

 

[jamtown unit]

What is your current gear ratio, does it accelerate from stand still ok ?

 

[go you good thing]

Clutch

Thank you for your replies.

Unfortunately their is no screw holding the clutch and it appears to be pressed on with some machine tack welds on the spinner holding it on. See pic below.

I have tried to run it as is but it would not move off the mark and the smoke from the clutch was setting off the fire alarm!

I still think Alaskavan has the solution at this stage.

Seeya,

gygt.

 

[Alaskavan]

You're using a 15t front sprocket. Is there a jackshaft? It sounds to me like you are geared way too high. You need to be somewhere in the nieghborhood of 18:1 gearing. With a 15t front, you would need to be running a humungous rear sprocket if you don't use a jackshaft.

 

[go you good thing]

Jackshaft

Alaskavan, I tried to get a smaller toothed sprocket but my supplier said that the 15 tooth was the smallest I could get with the mounting type that it uses. I couldn't use a standard sprocket with a grub screw as the shaft on the motor is only thin pressed steel and would certainly bend and stop it rotating altogether.

I guess the bushing in the center has to be that big to work the way it does and as a result had to have the big one.

I have however just ordered a 48 tooth sprocket for the first step of making a jackshaft so the reduction I hope should be low enough. Ill be trying to use a spare sprocket off a HT motor I have then coupling that to the existing 44 tooth on the wheel now. It would be better if it has a low top end as the finished product is intended for the kids and wife. Not that they will get a go too often

If it all works out I will post the specs of the sprockets, how it takes off and what top end to expect using the 16" wheel.

gygt.

 

[kingearwig]

The beginnings of a chainsaw friction drive.

here are pics of something I tried. It failed after 10 miles. I will update soon.
Side
front
side
side

 

[fastboy9]

I thought I had found every single website in the world that links engines with bicycles! But heres another one that gives full plans and instructions on making a rack mount bike, you can pay to buy the mounting kit and add your own engine. As you can see the parts look very simple so I'm sure you could copy the ideas and build your own for much cheaper. All you need is an engine with a centrifugal clutch, such as any petrol garden tool, or go for something a little bit more powerful from a go-ped or something.

Heres the link: http://bikemotorparts.com/page04.html

Well worth a read if you are thinking about building a rack mount friction drive bike.

 

[Large Filipino]

This thread RULES!!

Dawgs. I got a couple of questions.
I got this Chainsaw made in Japan so the engine is from Japan yo!
And it has a centrifugal clutch! Actually mounting this bad boy to my trike shouldn't pose a problem. With some solid angle iron,a good drill and a few grade 8 bolts and hardware it should align right on there with three mounting spots (both sides of the rather thin yet sturdy forks and the gooseneck so everything turns with the handlebar and maybe even the axle ends for added sturdiness)
So. First question. How would I mount a friction drive to the clutch housing? The clutch housing says 3/8 on it. I guess that's an important bit of information. Are there OTHER clutch housings with the friction drive built in? Remember. I don't have a welder.

Here's my other question. This is my throttle "wire".
How can I get a throttle cable on that?

Thanks ahead guys!!

Oh I have a third question. What does it mean when it would only start with starter fluid? I'm guessing it's fuel starved.
Maybe with the temperment of this engine it may be beneficial if I simply do away with the clutch and pull starter and fix that bike peg on to the axle so I can do push starts no having to pull a rope. But what about when I want to stop?
Oh. That's 4 questions now.

 

[muddawg]

ok the "3/8" is probably the pitch of the chainsaw chain

the pic of carb linkage is bad so im guessin what yer dealin with
ya can drill it out for a cable connector
or make a 90* bellcrank between the linkage and the cable

and yep starting with lighter fluid only is a carb rebuild

i cant help ya with the friction drive "Q" with out you buyin a welder

good luck
mike