Up grading batteries for 24v Ezip system

The main problem with Lions is exploding batteries. The LifePo4's that came with my Papamotors kit I find fare better. Also the ezip motors after 2008 I was informed can not easily be run at higher voltages. Opinions seem to vary but mine having been a little over a year old easily falls within that realm.

But what you did was very cool. Close up photos of a real how-to would be great for those who don't want to go the route I did. P.S. :devilish: I am considering heat removing all the ezip tags as it is not really an ezip anymore. Their company support imho sucks bigtime, attitude issues.
 
All eZip motors will run at higher voltages.
After 2008, the controller integrated a HVC, (High Voltage Cutoff).
This HVC is slightly above 30V.
My 7s, 25.9V, (29.4V peak charge), lion builds perform nicely on every eZip I've tried.

Higher voltages are tolerated, I've run a 2008 eZip at 37V (42V peak) for 3500 miles ... so far.
I am also planning on a 44 Magnum build. 44.4V (50.4V full charge).
Many go to extremes of additional cooling, I do not. Instead I avoid heat production.
Full throttle at 0mph produces 0% useful energy and 100% wasted heat.
As speed increases, this efficiency shifts, till at 50% of no load speed, efficiency attains approximately 80% useful energy with 20% waste heat.
Limiting full throttle till this mid-speed point, even with 48V, is less damaging than 24V full throttle at start.

Going from 24V to 48V will double peak torque and speed!
Downsides are increased heat production and accelerated brush wear.
 
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30mph eZip Trailz

Using 2 separate methods, I have produced 30mph capable eZips.

Easiest was the 44 Magnum. Swapping in a 48V controller and adding in my "homemade" 44.4V Li-ion build, produced a comfortable 30mph. Pedal assist upgraded by adding a 32-11T freewheel.

36V controller and homemade battery upgrade, in conjunction with my 16T motor freewheel mod provided a sustainable 30mph. 32-11T freewheel was required, for maintaining assist.
 
batteries and currie mod.

Thanks, Good information

This is partly a learning process for me so hear what I have done: I purchased a 36v controller, thumb control and charger. Wired the the bike for 36v and as suggested, bought three 12v 10amp SLA batteries from our local Battery Plus store.

The bike tops out at 22mph as was said by one member and that is fast enough for me. So far it is doing just fine and the motor does not get hot, just a little warm. As was pointed out by Motorbike Mike and Neon the 36v will shorten the life of the motor.

Here is what I have in mine: Find a strong brushless replacement motor that will handle the voltage and buy a second set of batteries, but Lithuim this time.

I bought the Ezip kit and installed it on my bike just for a trial with Electric. So far I certainly like the quietness of the bike. I have put together several nice gas powered bikes but the quitness, no gas or oil is a treat because of the overall cleaness.

Liked your comments and thanks for taking the time to post them. Do you think I am on the right track with the brushless motor and Lithium batteries?


Will
Here's a video on what I'm trying to do to mines. Bought four new turnigy lipos 5.0 to put in parallel and then in series but it's not working. I read somewhere these 24v Currie ezips stock parts can handle 36v batteries. If someone knows can it be possible with stock controller/throttle please let me know. This is my controller
 

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All eZip motors will run at higher voltages.
After 2008, the controller integrated a HVC, (High Voltage Cutoff).
This HVC is slightly above 30V.
My 7s, 25.9V, (29.4V peak charge), lion builds perform nicely on every eZip I've tried.

Higher voltages are tolerated, I've run a 2008 eZip at 37V (42V peak) for 3500 miles ... so far.
I am also planning on a 44 Magnum build. 44.4V (50.4V full charge).
Many go to extremes of additional cooling, I do not. Instead I avoid heat production.
Full throttle at 0mph produces 0% useful energy and 100% wasted heat.
As speed increases, this efficiency shifts, till at 50% of no load speed, efficiency attains approximately 80% useful energy with 20% waste heat.
Limiting full throttle till this mid-speed point, even with 48V, is less damaging than 24V full throttle at start.

Going from 24V to 48V will double peak torque and speed!
Downsides are increased heat production and accelerated brush wear.
You seem to know about the ezips. I have one step thru & one mtn trail. I bought four turnigy 5.0 lipos from Hobby King to put in parallel and in series = 37v 10ah but it's not working.?PLEASE HELP. Here are pictures of my bikes and controllers.
Ps here's a video on someone who's done it.
Also if not possible with stock parts which part do I need to change controller or throttle ?
 
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Wow, old thread.
Yes battery and controller tech have improved a LOT in the last 8 years.

What hasn't changed much is how to best use that motor power.
e-Hub motors are like direct drive gas engine systems, no gear shifting advantage.

I've built a dozen e-bike/trikes and all are shifters based on the Sick Bike Parts mid mount system.
http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalo...ucts_id=181&osCsid=8csildg7dip283haab9tbc3i36

From a simple step though 36V 360W 3-speed commuter..

2_HisHersElectrics-HersL-1280.jpg


To a 'blow you away' 48V ~1KW 9-speed full suspension off road monster...

2_SpecializedEpicDoneR-1280.jpg


My point is gears make a HUGE performance difference no matter what the power source.

For LI battery packs, just make sure it has a has a good BMS built in it.
That EM3EV 50V pack has 110 cells in it, and you want them all charged and balanced in harmony.

The controller will handle 24V-70V and the motor the same up to 1860W.
I hope that helps you see all the options available these days ;-}
 
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