Motorized bike build

[Risk Man]

you missed me there with the moped / motor driven cycle stuff, I'm looking at this part

This information (which is on the CHP page) clearly says you must have an "M1" endorsement on your license to drive a moped or motorized bicycle. "M2" is required for a motorcycle. So you must pass a "skills" test to get the "M1" endorsement.... and be wearing a DOT approved helmet.

 

[Greggl432]

Thank you for the detailed response @Wrench , it's really helpful. I see you have lights; is that for safety or an actual requirement? What about the motorcycle license? Is a license necessary?

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

Thank you for the detailed response @Wrench , it's really helpful. I see you have lights; is that for safety or an actual requirement? What about the motorcycle license? Is a license necessary?

If I remember correctly, the only gas/electric vehicle you can operate without a license is an electric bicycle or an electric mobility vehicle.

 

[Chainlube]

If I remember correctly, the only gas/electric vehicle you can operate without a license is an electric bicycle or an electric mobility vehicle.

Zoom zoom!

 

[Wrench]

Thank you for the detailed response @Wrench , it's really helpful. I see you have lights; is that for safety or an actual requirement? What about the motorcycle license? Is a license necessary?

Cops will want to see a head light and tail light, Yes basic requirements for a moped
A bicycle tail light will be OK, but it's better if ya got a working brake light.
There's some good rechargeable Lion bicycle lights on the market

My Whizzer has a 65w stator supporting a 12v 1,5ah battery my light's system is DOT approved and operate just like motorcycle/moped lights would

 

[Wrench]

Thank you for the detailed response @Wrench , it's really helpful. I see you have lights; is that for safety or an actual requirement? What about the motorcycle license? Is a license necessary?

California DMV says you need a M1 or M2 license to operate a Moped/Motorbike

If you got a DL all's ya got to do is take the written M/C test and then an instructor at the DMV will observe you operating your Motorbike to get your M2 or Motorcycle to get your M1
For the observation test I suggest you have a working tail/stop light and headlight on your M/B

Or if ya wanna take a 3 rd party Motorcycle class and learn how to ride a Motorcycle - they provide the M/C and usually 3 days and est cost of $250-$350
Upon completion and passing the M/C class the DMV will wave the observation test and ya just gotta take the written M/C test
to get your M1

But ya know what they say "it's only illegal if ya get caught"

Meh, I got a M1

 

[Risk Man]

California DMV says you need a M1 or M2 license to operate a Moped/Motorbike

If you got a DL all's ya got to do is take the written M/C test and then an instructor at the DMV will observe you operating your Motorbike to get your M2 or Motorcycle to get your M1
For the observation test I suggest you have a working tail/stop light and headlight on your M/B

Or if ya wanna take a 3 rd party Motorcycle class and learn how to ride a Motorcycle - they provide the M/C and usually 3 days and est cost of $250-$350
Upon completion and passing the M/C class the DMV will wave the observation test and ya just gotta take the written M/C test
to get your M1

But ya know what they say "it's only illegal if ya get caught"

Meh, I got a M1

Never having owned a MC I decided to take the private course for $250 just to learn how to correctly ride and operate a MC. That transfers to a MB at 40mph speeds. Worth the money and the experience for me.

 

[Greggl432]

Update:

Thinking of going with the Hyper Cruiser over the Huffy Cranbrook now. - Is it true the Cranbrook has stronger wheels and spokes whereas the hyper cruiser has a stronger frame?

Going to add brakes, potentially just a front rim brake in addition to the back coaster brake.

iirc, I remember hearing that the rear coaster brakes led to catastrophic outcomes, -- I've forgotten what exactly happens wrong with the coaster brake, if someone could remind me?

Read from the motorcycle handbook that 90% of the stopping power is in the front brake, so perhaps having a separate front brake would be beneficial instead of both brakes getting pulled (the same amount?) / equal adjustment

how do you prep the piston rings?

And what engines options are available below the price of the Zeda 80 firestorm?

Is the Yd100 still available?

What are the 100cc engine kits on eBay?

No more Seeutek engines? is there anything like it?

I'm considering going to a larger engine as I'm not quite sure how well the stock eBay engine does, I remember a couple years ago when I weighed around 280 lbs I was surprised how much torque there was with likely that engine.

Thinking I might order some premixed two stroke oil /gas to get me started.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Update:

Thinking of going with the Hyper Cruiser over the Huffy Cranbrook now. - Is it true the Cranbrook has stronger wheels and spokes whereas the hyper cruiser has a stronger frame?

Going to add brakes, potentially just a front rim brake in addition to the back coaster brake.

iirc, I remember hearing that the rear coaster brakes led to catastrophic outcomes, -- I've forgotten what exactly happens wrong with the coaster brake, if someone could remind me?

Read from the motorcycle handbook that 90% of the stopping power is in the front brake, so perhaps having a separate front brake would be beneficial instead of both brakes getting pulled (the same amount?) / equal adjustment

how do you prep the piston rings?

And what engines options are available below the price of the Zeda 80 firestorm?

Is the Yd100 still available?

What are the 100cc engine kits on eBay?

No more Seeutek engines? is there anything like it?

I'm considering going to a larger engine as I'm not quite sure how well the stock eBay engine does, I remember a couple years ago when I weighed around 280 lbs I was surprised how much torque there was with likely that engine.

Thinking I might order some premixed two stroke oil /gas to get me started.

Front brakes always do the majority of the work, this is true for all vehicles.

You can setup a front bias with a dual pull brake lever a couple of different ways. The easiest way is to adjust the rear brake slightly more "loose" than the front so the front grabs first and grabs more strongly. For on-road riding this is adequate. The only downside to the single pull method is when it comes to loose surfaces where being able to manipulate the rear brake independently is advantageous, mostly because locking the front brake on loose surfaces when on any 2 wheeled vehicle tends to end with a face full of dirt and a busted up bike.

The front rim brake and rear coaster combo will work OK, but as you progress with your build it will be wise to eventually upgrade if you can. Just don't go aiming for 30+mph speeds.

I can't stress enough on the Zeda Firestorm 80 being the best "buy once, cry once" option. Yes, price is steep compared to many kits on ebay, but there is a reason it costs more.

You can definitely use a YD100. Just be prepared to go much slower than you think it will. Engine size =/= performance. Most YD100's are low compression and have poor port timing numbers so they tend to make great torque, but don't rev very high or make much in the way of top end power without some work to the ports. A good quality "80" engine like the Firestorm 80 will out perform most YD100's, especially budget ones.

I get that at the end of the day you have to stick to a budget, and if you can't afford the Zeda, you can't afford it. I've done my share of cheapo YD100's, and every single one of them required work to be mildly decent. Maybe somebody can point you at a good cheap engine kit that suits your budget better.

My last bit of advice is to not buy any of the black painted engine kits.

Piston ring prep = check end gap, adjust gap if needed, and then oil liberally during assembly.

 

[Amwicr]

If you weigh 280lbs, IMO stock wheels shouldn't be a consideration.