Break In Looking for tips, New Build

I don't think there are mounts for disk brakes but there are the mounting holes for caliper. My mtn bike has i think front disk rear caliper, I would have built on it but it have through frame rear suspension so no room for motor. I'll have to check my bike that I never use I don't remember what brakes it has but even it it had caliper it might me a shorter length.
 
Well about to go out and check the throttle spring situation and I had a question about a future upgrade. I noticed there is a sproket/adapter kit for the rear wheel/motor chain to have less wear on spokes as well as more balenced/even spacing. I read lower teeth number = more speed and higher is more torque. Does this mean the more teeth option like 44 are better for hills?

I'll check back after I check the spring/cable.
 
Well this extreme heat we are having is not helping the tuning, the extra oil mix isnt helping you out either. Everyone had thirst own opinion on oil ratios but you can safely go up to 20:1 myself I use full synthetic 36:1 right from the start. Ngk b6hs is a good plug you may want to try b7hs with this heat wave. Have you done any mods to the engine? Is it 4 stroking while accelerating or bogging?
Thought I was the only one running 36:1.
Not tuning my bike until the heat breaks. It's just stupid hot!
 
I'd highly recommend getting one of the clamshell hub adapters for mounting your sprocket. So much easier to deal with than the rag joint and far more reliable as well.

Your spot on with the rear sprockets, lower tooth count = lower torque but high speed, high tooth counts = more torque at the expense of speed.

Here is a really rough idea of how different sprockets compare

Assuming 8k rpm, 26in wheels:
36t - 42 mph
40t - 38 mph
44t - 34 mph
48t - 31 mph
50t - 30 mph
52t - 29 mph
54t - 28 mph
56t - 27 mph
60t - 25 mph
64t - 24 mph
66t - 23 mph

Personally, I run a 36t on my bike and it's just about perfect. I usually cruise around 35 mph or so which is roughly 6-6.5k rpm. After looking into jackshafts some more, I've fully decided that is the next thing I'm buying for the bike despite the crazy price.

When I calculated the gear ratios on SBP's kit I get the following:

Equivalent sprocketCog tooth countActual gear numberSpeed at 8,000 rpm
60t28t1st25.9 mph
50t24t2nd30 mph
46t22t3rd33 mph
42t20t4th36.3 mph
38t18t5th40.4 mph
34t16t6th45.4 mph
29t14t7th51.9 mph

Looks yummy to me haha
 
Okay, another update. I checked the spring and adjusted it making sure it seated right and throttle cable has no slack now and actually throttles again. Now...on the other hand it won't idle now and kinda sounds like a chirping bird or squeaky toy. Is that 4 stroking? Also seems harder to start.

I also want to point out I am a built guy who is a bit out of shape lately so thats one reason I asked about the torque. I am fine with having lower top speed if it means hills are easier but then again I am used to the previous bike that didn't idle(I wish I knew about tuning back then)....I miss my Harley, LOL

On a side note, I did order caliper brakes and they should be here Tuesday.
 
Tightened Head, Squeaking/chirping stopped. Still not wanting to idle though. Also Idle screw is a few turns from all the way in.
 
Make sure your intake isnt leaking air anywhere around the gasket and that it's also sealed where the carb mounts. Its almost impossible to get a quality idle out of the stock carbs but it should stay running
 
If you have some carb cleaner, starting fluid, or any other highly combustible aerosol you can easily check for vacuum leaks by giving suspect areas a quick spurt while the motor is running (may need to keep one hand on the throttle). If it suddenly revs when you spray, you have your culprit.
 
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