Internals for a new motor

keagan

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Hey its keagan so todays question is what is the best inturnals i could for a 66cc motor ive got a gt90 clone kit and was going to swap my guts from my gt5 into this motor but then this happened
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So now I'm in the need of internals for my hole new motor I have found This but it looks nothing like what I have let alone if it will work for the GT90 kit so any tips and or suggestions will help thanks!
 
Wait, why do you need a complete overhaul? That's just a bevel gear and those are easily found online by almost any vendor who sells these motors.
im building the GT90 and was planning to use that ones internals but I didn't know it was that easy to find that part but still would like suggestions on a new Crank and clutch kit that's meant for a built motor. Sorry I'm kind of new but at the same time not. Never built a motor from nothing so I don't know every thing I need for this kind of motor if you could give me a list of some sort that would be cool.
 
I can start you with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272017578291

That's the gear, it's the only thing on the list you'll need to make a complete engine with what you have. In regards to the crank and clutch I would honestly skip new ones unless the old ones are toast, mostly in this hobby you'll be using up pistons and cylinders, and maybe heads if you keep to the stock slant and can't use a torque wrench to save your life.

Do you actually have motors that are in need of repair or are you trying to prep? It may be a good idea learning to take apart a known running motor, and then put it back together, as long as you did it right then it will run.

I don't recommend splitting a case if you don't really need to, realy nothing to see or care about if it's running since that means that everything is in good shape. I don't go that far unless I can't see the bearing shield under the seal but that's because I don't trust the s**tty bearings that are floating around failing because the engine reached normal operating temperature..
 
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I can start you with this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272017578291

That's the gear, it's the only thing on the list you'll need to make a complete engine with what you have. In regards to the crank and clutch I would honestly skip new ones unless the old ones are toast, mostly in this hobby you'll be using up pistons and cylinders, and maybe heads if you keep to the stock slant and can't use a torque wrench to save your life.

Do you actually have motors that are in need of repair or are you trying to prep? It may be a good idea learning to take apart a known running motor, and then put it back together, as long as you did it right then it will run.

I don't recommend splitting a case if you don't really need to, realy nothing to see or care about if it's running since that means that everything is in good shape. I don't go that far unless I can't see the bearing shield under the seal but that's because I don't trust the s**tty bearings that are floating around failing because the engine reached normal operating temperature..
well thanks frank and yes I am just prepping as it stands now I'm getting a new frame and everything at the end of this month so I just thought I would ask around to see if there's anything I need for a new motor you have been a big help ~Keagan
 
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No billet steel cranks and forged pistons or forged connecting rods as of yet for this hobby.

Would be nice to see a company like Weisco come out with a bottom end kit or even a big bore kit but it's most likely not going to happen anytime soon.

You can already find upgrade bearings and for some motors better pistons and rings and rod pin bearings but you'll just have to use the crank and rod we all get and find a good machinist to rework them for better performance and reliability.

Eventually more research will net us more parts compatibility with higher grade motors we can borrow from.

Good luck with the build.
 
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There is a place that offers a big block kit it has a huge reed valve setup. They also sell a 9.5 HP Reed case racing engine for $1,200. There is also a company Zeda, that sells cylinders that's been sleeved with a steel cylinder sleeve to do away with the chrome flaking problem with high compression/heat. I personally will be using the Zeda steel sleeve jug for $200 at a later date.
 
There is a place that offers a big block kit it has a huge reed valve setup. They also sell a 9.5 HP Reed case racing engine for $1,200. There is also a company Zeda, that sells cylinders that's been sleeved with a steel cylinder sleeve to do away with the chrome flaking problem with high compression/heat. I personally will be using the Zeda steel sleeve jug for $200 at a later date.
I thought it was an iron sleeve, no?
 
I thought it was an iron sleeve, no?

Nope they are steel sleeved.

https://www.zedamotorsports.com/sho...ucts/50mm-sleeved-cylinder-works-with-zeda80s

What a steel sleeve does is allows you to put more heat and abuse towards the engine. It also provides a lot longer endurance of an engine. These do not break down and wear and tear like the china cylinders. This is made for abuse.

I'm not one to abuse my engines 2 stroke or 4 stroke, but I rather have something bullet proof so it will last me and I can get my money worth out.
 
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