G
gone_fishin
Guest
this is how i installed my cable & adjusted my clutch:
install the lever where you want it, screw the cable-adjustment fitting all the way in. make sure the adjustment fitting on the engine is also all the way in. use both springs, the large one is for heat insulation of the cable housing where it contacts the engine, the other is to maintain proper tension on the cable, it's not really for pullback like some people might think.
remove the brass fitting, thread the cable through the engine-end adjuster, the small spring, and the clutch actuater. pull the cable as tight as you can by hand, making sure the housing is properly seated at both ends. lightly press the clutch actuater to remove mechanical slack, then tighten the brass fittiing on the cable. now, you have a tight cable and mostly-tight housing with no slack, so let's adjust the clutch.
pull the clutch lever and lock it. spin the real wheel, still all-the-way or slightly engaged? using the lever end adjuster, tighten the cable housing until it just starts to pull, stop there & lock the adjuster. spin the wheel, need more? i did. using the engine end adjuster, screw it out a bit at a time and keep checking for freewheeling. the instant you have no drag, don't go any further...stop & lock the adjuster. check the wheel once more for freewheeling, if it's still good, release the clutch lever. are you fully engaged? you should be, like it's been said, very little travel is needed. ok, pull and lock the clutch lever, rear wheel completely free again?
you've just properly adjusted your clutch, good job.
install the lever where you want it, screw the cable-adjustment fitting all the way in. make sure the adjustment fitting on the engine is also all the way in. use both springs, the large one is for heat insulation of the cable housing where it contacts the engine, the other is to maintain proper tension on the cable, it's not really for pullback like some people might think.
remove the brass fitting, thread the cable through the engine-end adjuster, the small spring, and the clutch actuater. pull the cable as tight as you can by hand, making sure the housing is properly seated at both ends. lightly press the clutch actuater to remove mechanical slack, then tighten the brass fittiing on the cable. now, you have a tight cable and mostly-tight housing with no slack, so let's adjust the clutch.
pull the clutch lever and lock it. spin the real wheel, still all-the-way or slightly engaged? using the lever end adjuster, tighten the cable housing until it just starts to pull, stop there & lock the adjuster. spin the wheel, need more? i did. using the engine end adjuster, screw it out a bit at a time and keep checking for freewheeling. the instant you have no drag, don't go any further...stop & lock the adjuster. check the wheel once more for freewheeling, if it's still good, release the clutch lever. are you fully engaged? you should be, like it's been said, very little travel is needed. ok, pull and lock the clutch lever, rear wheel completely free again?
you've just properly adjusted your clutch, good job.