DLH Saf Clutch Issues

[DieselTech]

I'm leaning towards the same issue as I stated in my previous response. Does anybody know any other place to buy better aftermarket CNC clutch plates? Everyone's out of stock from my main sources!

Maybe this would work. It's from that unspoken place!

 

[Deleted member 35519]

Maybe this would work. It's from that unspoken place!View attachment 208082

Yeah which is pathetic. Their asking $15 shipping.

 

[Risk Man]

Yeah which is pathetic. Their asking $15 shipping.

Oh, but shipping is FREE if you buy $99 of their Cra! That is what I did at first.. then the next $200, then the $500 frame... then the fun really began with customer NOT service started and ended with a dispute with AmEx that I won... never again!

 

[DieselTech]

Oh, but shipping is FREE if you buy $99 of their Cra! That is what I did at first.. then the next $200, then the $500 frame... then the fun really began with customer NOT service started and ended with a dispute with AmEx that I won... never again!

Lol sounds like I wasnt the only 1. Lmao I bought a bike they said they had in stock. 3 weeks went by & no new bike. I reach out to them & they told me we shipped your bike to you. I said the Frick you did not! Almost 2months later I got my bike only after I threatened them with a lawsuit from my CC company.

 

[Deleted member 35519]

Yeah their d1*kheads. They ran me around a circle for a month about a missing nut on a back of the felt faker f-zero frame. Then blew up my phone with promotional texts and offered me a 90 dollar credit to their store again. Which I never used and lost due to expiration!

Furthermore their heavy bar rims are nice however they kept pinching tire causing a pin hole leak in all tubes! I had to say f this and pay an extra 100 to install tannus armor in each tire! Zero issues now!

 

[robe]

Saf clutch guts the internal spring and relies on the pressure of the outer printer springs. I have all the parts from another engine. As far as installing. I did have trouble trying to wack the old one out of this engine case. Dlh assembly videos do describe that sometimes the nut to the crankshaft rod is to far out, so I grinded one down. To have the clutch pad contact all the way to the brake pads. The saf clutches don't use flower nuts. They use a lock nut on the crankshaft rod that you screw the crankshaft rod that comes out of your crank shaft that was originally intended for the flower nut as well. This typically is stuck in the crank shaft that mounts the 10t sprocket and the flower nut to the clutch basket on the opposite side. I think this problem is more complex. I think I need a new crankshaft, pads and a better clutch plate. This is being ran off a 9hp ported Minarelli.
View attachment 208074


@ Chainlube, It does seem the clutch plate is just continuously rotating against the break pads. Considering this plate isn't the best. I have ordered some brake pads to replace these. In hopes that they may grip tighter I will have to trim them to where they free float in the basket. Some people also mention replacing the pads with more expensive thicker pads such as rdm black and metallics. I could however go to an auto store and buy their cheapest semi metallic brake pad for a car and Dremel my own? Either or stock china clutch plates suck in this scenario it seems. I'm having troubling locating better ones besides bicycle-engines.com Zelda clutch plate, rdm machinated ones which I would have to back order and wait until April to receive, or AliExpress.com which can take a month to come in. It appears California motorbikes have their clutch plate back in stock as well. Zane's typically pretty good about shipping if I request he sends them via UPS.

Other thing is the gears do lock up. Is just when I push the bike forward or backwards. There is absolutely no force of the tire stiffening back or forth. It just freely spins. Therefore meaning the clutch plate is just freely spinning fully compressed to the pads. When I bought the bike off someone the clutch worked. When I brought it home and removed the plate and looked inside the nut that secured the plate was unthreaded as though it spun off. I secured it and this is when they problem started. The crankshaft rod just freely spins with the plate fully secured and assembled contacting to the ball bearing and bucking bar. After correcting the nuts depth to the threading of the rod last night. It brought the clutch plate closer. I had to also cut a drill bit end and use it as the bucking bar as the original bucking bar was too short and wasn't tensing the clutch lever after correcting the issue with nut to the clutch basket not being fully seated in.

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Thanks for the explanation. I thought the outer springs assisted the inner spring.

 

[Deleted member 35519]

Thanks for the explanation. I thought the outer springs assisted the inner spring.

Well technically they can, but since the crank shaft isn't really designed for anything past 66cc the pin which retains the bucking bar that screws on the flower nut bends and rips into the pinon area that retains it. Minarellis are higher rpms 6hp out of the box, 9hp fully ported. Everyone and their dog has issues with these motors wearing the regular springs as they report. However I'm willing to try using the original clutch with an upgraded spring, as long as it gets rid of this issue. It will however wear out the crank shaft which holds the clutch plate and 10t sprocket together between two bearings.


I've yet to really find the right spring to use without the modification of a dremel. Most report you have to dremel the inner diameter in order to have it fit between the pin. If anybody knows. By all means send me a link? I heard the green and brown springs are between 400-600lbs of pressure.