Which carb???

skizman

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Which carb can I just bolt on and have it work stock and not need to start changing jets....ect ect? I'm burned out with changing and adjusting carb parts. I have a YD100 Anbull engine. Is there a carb that I can just rely on to bolt it on and........off I go?
 
Which carb can I just bolt on and have it work stock and not need to start changing jets....ect ect? I'm burned out with changing and adjusting carb parts. I have a YD100 Anbull engine. Is there a carb that I can just rely on to bolt it on and........off I go?
Unfortunately that's not how these things work! You can get away with the stock jetting but it will never be truly tuned, the pipe choice may aid in retaining the stock jetting.
 
Which carb can I just bolt on and have it work stock and not need to start changing jets....ect ect? I'm burned out with changing and adjusting carb parts. I have a YD100 Anbull engine. Is there a carb that I can just rely on to bolt it on and........off I go?
A good, No Fuss, carburetor can be had quite cheaply...I have run it on two different motors, the Zeda 80 and on the Phantom 85 as it is now the stock carby for both replacing the basic NT carb...The gas tickler button has been eliminated, has a thicker housing clamp on area that attaches to the intake and also has an emulsifier tube which is a dramatic improvement over the basic NT...Here in the US, you can get it from Amazon for $11.99.

Set the needle valve in the middle postion to start with, in most cases, as long as your not in extreme altitudes as I am, that setting should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/JRL-Carburetor-Stroke-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B08N9WYS1V
 
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A good, No Fuss, carburetor can be had quite cheaply...I have run it on two different motors, the Zeda 80 and on the Phantom 85 as it is now the stock carby for both replacing the basic NT carb...The gas tickler button has been eliminated, has a thicker housing clamp on area that attaches to the intake and also has an emulsifier tube which is a dramatic improvement over the basic NT...Here in the US, you can get it from Amazon for $11.99.

Set the needle valve in the middle postion to start with, in most cases, as long as your not in extreme altitudes as I am, that setting should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/JRL-Carburetor-Stroke-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B08N9WYS1V
Now that sounds like a plan. THanks for your input! I'm at 1,100 ft but I don't think I'm high enough to change carb jets ect..
 
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There is not "bolting on" a carb. They will all need tuned
This. All of this.

That said, the Bofeng that Damien recommended is pretty close. At worst, if it does somehow end up too nig on the jet (a 70) drop down to a 68 or 65. They use 99101-124 jets. That should be all the jetting it ever needs.

If you really want to get tired of jets, I have a spare carb rack from a GL1000 goldwing. Each carb has 6 jets, 3 air, 3 fuel. It's a BLAST 🤣. It will make you an expert by the time you sort it out.
 
If you really want to get tired of jets, I have a spare carb rack from a GL1000 goldwing. Each carb has 6 jets, 3 air, 3 fuel. It's a BLAST 🤣. It will make you an expert by the time you sort it out.
That still sounds easier than it was fine tuing my twin SU carbys on my old MG and Triumph British sports cars I used to own...lol.
 
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