Stripped stud question?

[DAMIEN1307]

I have to admit I never owned a CG 2 stroke because I'm a Whizzer 4 stroke guy

But my question is , is there enough meat in the case to just drill the hole deeper and tap some more threads ?
Of course this means a longer stud would be needed

That's a good question. I never thought of that

If you go any deeper, you risk fracturing that cheap, Chinesium, crap aluminum on the lower half.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

The biggest cause i've seen for stripped out studs and threads is because they have been over-torqued in the first place, or torqued when the motor is still hot or warm, not waiting for it to get dead cold before doing so.

 

[robe]

I was thinking of using one of the aluminum soldering rods to fill the hole with solder, drill and tap new 8 mm threads. I have yet to try this.
I've posted a video where a guy tests the various brands to determine which one is best.
I did a test of this a while back and the stuff I have seems to stick quite well. Here is a link to that.

POWER PIPE. Hand built and tuned from scrap

Well I gave it a try and it is surprisingly strong. I didn't do all that great a prep job as I only tinned the butt end and a small area of the flat, you can see on the left side first picture the proper tinning, I had to really beat on it until it broke. Bent the flat stock I brazed the...

motoredbikes.com

Well I did watch the vid and Hobart rods won the contest.

 

[darwin]

Sometimes this works. Say it's 5mm stripped hole, use a 5.5mm tap to rethread it. SAE go a 32nd over. New bolt will have to match. This is an example, actual sizes will have to be sourced. Maybe an SAE is available for a metric or vice versa. Just a lil bigger to rethread it.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

A helicoil works just fine for this application. No need to overcomplicate something so simple.

As for going deeper on the case. I would only attempt this on a drill press or mill that has either an accurate depth indicator, or a stop set. In theory the idea is sound. More threads = more area of thread engagement = stronger.

The main issue is, going too far will put the hole into the crank case and that will cause a vacuum leak.

Some cases have a lot more material to work with than others. That is one aspect of the 110cc engines that I do love, they are thick and chunky and have ton of deck material to work with.

 

[Wrench]

Using a hand drill, cut a length of steel tubing the correct length, that'll be your drill bit depth stop

Drill bit length sticking out past the end of the tubing will be the depth

 

[darwin]

Tie wrap can be use for depth limit. Tight around the bit, then snip.

 

[Wrench]

Tie wrap can be use for depth limit. Tight around the bit, then snip.

Yep, tape or a zippie tie will mark the drill bit, but if it's critical, better use a piece of metal tubing so ya don't drill too deep by accident