Seat post - Laid back?

Mt bud John likes it. I don't, but it's his bike. This is what I like. As Crisco pointed out my welding skills leave much to be desired, and it be true. They hold well, and you can put the clamp that is on the seat atop of the seat rails to get low low low.View media item 60797View media item 59990
 
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See that's what I'm trying to accomplish a low enough seat that will allow me to plant my feet comfortably on the ground. I don't need it set up for max power when pedaling as I will hardly ever pedal.

I also see you got the same Velo pedals that I got.
 
I like the old rubber pedals. Old bikes used to have a pedal that looked similar on the kicker. Just make your own post. Check the seat to see how much drop back you can get away with without the front portion of the post binding against the framework under the seat.
 
I don't have a seat yet I have one picked out I want to go with to compliment my leather grips.

https://www.amazon.com/Velo-SD-Sadd...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8W2J3DZZVWAC5GW61TTK

That is the seat I'm looking at. I was looking at a more vintage hard leather seat but Id have to buy the real expensive one ($100+) to get one that will keep it shape. This one has more of a motorcycle seat look to it which I really am looking more at a tractor style seat just leather wrapped and I think this fits the bill perfectly.
Beautiful seat!! Can't wait to see your bike all come together.
 
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I like the old rubber pedals. Old bikes used to have a pedal that looked similar on the kicker. Just make your own post. Check the seat to see how much drop back you can get away with without the front portion of the post binding against the framework under the seat.

I might do that. I do have two welders here I could weld it all up.

That's why I bought these they had a better review than the Sunlite pedals I was originally looking at and people were claiming the sunlite was a very hard plastic. These Velo ones I got they are hard but you can sink your finger into them some so they aren't plastic just a very hard rubber.

Beautiful seat!! Can't wait to see your bike all come together.

Well I made a step forward for a step back today. Last day of work for the week for me and I took my disc brake flange to work and marked it at 10mm and I also measured it at four corners with my dial caliper. Was 11.98 - 12.01 mm all around. So 12mm thick. I couldn't use the brake lathe as I couldn't get the cutting head in a position to cut. So I clamped it in a vice and used my silver eagle air angle grinder with a 60 grit aluminum zirconium sanding wheel attached. Took the better part of 2 hours to shave 2mm off which I followed up with a flat bastard file to remove any high spots. To ensure the rotor stayed true I mounted the rotor on the machined face as the disc brake flange would not allow the rotor flange to come off true as its threaded true to begin with.

I went to shift the wheel over to the right 7mm when I got home and found I couldn't. I remember the bike shop told me that they removed the rear bearings and greased them. I thought to myself why they are heavy duty sealed bearings there is nothing to grease. Well I was looking at the wheel and don't remember the axle being off center. Come to find out the bastards pulled the axle and didn't even put it back in the right way. I knocked one bearing out flipped the axle around reinstalled the bearing and moved the wheel 7mm to the left. Now I am 1 to maybe 2mm off center to the right. My freewheel cog is now perfectly aligned with my chain ring as well. The step back for me is I went to go install my rear BB7 brake caliper only to find it didn't have the pads installed. Front had pads with piece of cardboard and rear is just a empty caliper. So now I have to see what MB Rebel will do about this I might just order from Amazon new pads so I can get them in two days and if MB Rebel sends me a set of pads ill keep them as spares.
 
I might do that. I do have two welders here I could weld it all up.

That's why I bought these they had a better review than the Sunlite pedals I was originally looking at and people were claiming the sunlite was a very hard plastic. These Velo ones I got they are hard but you can sink your finger into them some so they aren't plastic just a very hard rubber.



Well I made a step forward for a step back today. Last day of work for the week for me and I took my disc brake flange to work and marked it at 10mm and I also measured it at four corners with my dial caliper. Was 11.98 - 12.01 mm all around. So 12mm thick. I couldn't use the brake lathe as I couldn't get the cutting head in a position to cut. So I clamped it in a vice and used my silver eagle air angle grinder with a 60 grit aluminum zirconium sanding wheel attached. Took the better part of 2 hours to shave 2mm off which I followed up with a flat bastard file to remove any high spots. To ensure the rotor stayed true I mounted the rotor on the machined face as the disc brake flange would not allow the rotor flange to come off true as its threaded true to begin with.

I went to shift the wheel over to the right 7mm when I got home and found I couldn't. I remember the bike shop told me that they removed the rear bearings and greased them. I thought to myself why they are heavy duty sealed bearings there is nothing to grease. Well I was looking at the wheel and don't remember the axle being off center. Come to find out the bastards pulled the axle and didn't even put it back in the right way. I knocked one bearing out flipped the axle around reinstalled the bearing and moved the wheel 7mm to the left. Now I am 1 to maybe 2mm off center to the right. My freewheel cog is now perfectly aligned with my chain ring as well. The step back for me is I went to go install my rear BB7 brake caliper only to find it didn't have the pads installed. Front had pads with piece of cardboard and rear is just a empty caliper. So now I have to see what MB Rebel will do about this I might just order from Amazon new pads so I can get them in two days and if MB Rebel sends me a set of pads ill keep them as spares.
Well finding out you had no pads must of surely sucked. I'd also order the pads off of Amazon, you'll eventually need them..... well you do plan keeping the MB right?
 
Well finding out you had no pads must of surely sucked. I'd also order the pads off of Amazon, you'll eventually need them..... well you do plan keeping the MB right?

It did, I ended up buying from Avid on Amazon OEM sintered metallic pads, Pyramid 50ft cable housing, 10 pack of 6ft cable ends with crimps, 5mm ferrules, and a Sunyou tool for cutting and crimping these cables and housings all for $66.32. I'm getting replacement pads from MB Rebel as well so I will have one put up as a spare.

Oh I plan on keeping the bike unless someone comes along and offers an insane price like $2,500+
 
It did, I ended up buying from Avid on Amazon OEM sintered metallic pads, Pyramid 50ft cable housing, 10 pack of 6ft cable ends with crimps, 5mm ferrules, and a Sunyou tool for cutting and crimping these cables and housings all for $66.32. I'm getting replacement pads from MB Rebel as well so I will have one put up as a spare.

Oh I plan on keeping the bike unless someone comes along and offers an insane price like $2,500+
Interesting. Have you decided on where you'll be getting the motor ported?
 
Honestly I am still torn smart part of me still wants to get the MPG-38 engine for $280 and forgo the extra $100 crank balancing. The other part of me mostly wants to go with Zeda80 66cc engine. Mostly cause over on Bicycle-Engine they have a PDF file from Zeda-Technologies showing how their engines compare to others. I am honestly leaning towards doing one of two things buying a pre ported cylinder for the Zeda80 to give it a try or just buy a spare cylinder from Zeda and try my own hand at porting.

If I go MPG-38, I been watching Fred`s videos on youtube he talks about what kind of port work you can do to bring in a little more top end power without effecting the bottom end power that he already has it set up for. So the MPG-38 is still on my mind.
 
Honestly I am still torn smart part of me still wants to get the MPG-38 engine for $280 and forgo the extra $100 crank balancing. The other part of me mostly wants to go with Zeda80 66cc engine. Mostly cause over on Bicycle-Engine they have a PDF file from Zeda-Technologies showing how their engines compare to others. I am honestly leaning towards doing one of two things buying a pre ported cylinder for the Zeda80 to give it a try or just buy a spare cylinder from Zeda and try my own hand at porting.

If I go MPG-38, I been watching Fred`s videos on youtube he talks about what kind of port work you can do to bring in a little more top end power without effecting the bottom end power that he already has it set up for. So the MPG-38 is still on my mind.
I never ported a motor before & I personally thought of trying my hand at porting too to see if it's doable. I watched numerous videos and got great tips on this forum & I think I'd be able to do it. You have a lot of fine detail and quality parts going into this build, I've been following your progress & I really like your meticulous eye for detail. While your definitely more skilled then I am what I would suggest is you purchase the cheapest cylinder and try your hand on that one first.
I'm an inpatient person so if your in any way the same you most likely just want to get the thing done. If you do decide to practice on a more affordable cylinder I would seriously consider purchasing it if it turns out well. You set a fair price for parts and labor and I'm your man. In addition to the cash option I would also be willing to do trades. I sell on eBay and have a large variety of possible items of interest.... just some food for thought if you do decide to try your hand and practice first?? The only thing is that I own a Grubee Skyhawk motor now & any cylinder would naturally have to fit.
But I'm one of your followers, I appreciate that you post extensive comments on your threads & like I said, I can't wait to see the outcome!
 
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