GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
I've been at the 96th annual Oregon FFA state convention lol.
First build, happy to find a place with so much wisdom!
- Thread starter Traveler84
- Start date
Traveler84
New Member
I went to a local cycling shop about 70 miles away and they confirmed my suspicions about it being either a light competition bike or trainer bike based on its setup and parts. Flip-flop fixie confirmed as well. Once I get it all put together they will assist me with figuring out a good combinations of tires and rims. Their in-house stock is outrageous.
I test fit the spark plug wire and coil last night but didn't button it down. Once placed it should be right under the seat and looks pretty good. It's also a good place for cable management.
Running wires and cables today to prep for installing the levers. Ordering a better muffler and intake once it runs. Trying to get it going first and then upgrade the kit, one thing at a time so I don't get ahead of myself.
The bike has remnants of a coaster brake system, how do those normally handle for motorization? Is there a certain quality level I should be looking for? I am highly considering a drum brake in the front and getting a gravel-bike style suspension fork.
This bike will be expressly a road queen but suspension is a must for me. I'd change the fork even without a motor.
GW's Motorized
Well-Known Member
Looking sweet! Coaster brakes on an MB is not very good. If you can good rim brakes are a good option
cloakedvillain
Well-Known Member
you can supe up a coaster brake. I have run a coaster brake successfully but I don't ride faster than I could unassisted.
cloakedvillain
Well-Known Member
Here's my drop bar build: Post in thread '70s schwinn speedster project.' https://motoredbikes.com/threads/70s-schwinn-speedster-project.63640/post-651272
Your plan is to use a drop bar brake lever for the clutch? You will want a way to be able to lock the clutch back if that is the case. How do you plan to also actuate the rear brake? Maybe I just didn't understand what you are trying to do.
Traveler84
New Member
Yes, the clutch and throttle will be on the drop bar brake levers. I will have a stopper for the clutch on the lever, as the model I purchased have eyelits for a different locking positions. Should take light fabrication to make an adjusted locking position for this purpose.
Currently it only has a front brake that has a lever mounted in the center of the handlebars but I will need to install rear brakes and add those in.
As far as configuration of where the lever will be on the drop bars, likely in the center opposite the current set. I may work to see what is best for this though. Rear may be a shimano coaster as I won't be going faster than about 25-30.
Currently it only has a front brake that has a lever mounted in the center of the handlebars but I will need to install rear brakes and add those in.
As far as configuration of where the lever will be on the drop bars, likely in the center opposite the current set. I may work to see what is best for this though. Rear may be a shimano coaster as I won't be going faster than about 25-30.
You could also use a splitter to use one lever to actuate both brakes. The trick is to adjust the rears slightly later than the fronts so there is always a slight front bias. Only downside to that is you lose independent control.
Traveler84
New Member
I had not thought of that, thank you so much!
Traveler84
New Member
Today's update. Cable ends come in tomorrow but I ran and squared away as much cable as I could. I will definitely need to weld the kits sprocket on the 18t fixie sprocket to get it going. After the sprocket is corrected and I put the end cap on the clutch and throttle cables I should be ready for testing.
Any opinions on what to do with all the open space above the engine? I do not want a larger engine but am considering a larger fuel tank.
Any opinions on what to do with all the open space above the engine? I do not want a larger engine but am considering a larger fuel tank.
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