Engine won't turn over when pedaling

[GearNut]

Ok guys, The weak little spring that is between the outer clutch plate and the clutch hub is only there to aid in releasing the clutch.
The actual clutch spring responsible for operating pressure is inside the case, hidden behind the bearings, between the clutch on the right and the sprocket on the left.
In post #12, I shared how to adjust this spring.
If you cannot get it to adjust any tighter I can only surmise that the spring is too weak from the factory (only read about that happening once), or the assembly was manufactured wrong.

It is removable for bench inspection and modification/ repair and not hard to do. If you want to get in deeper to remove it, let me know.

Edit: Be sure that your clutch cable has absolutely no tension on it when the clutch lever is released. The release arm should be able to wiggle a little.

 

[GearNut]

Here's an awesome animation of the works shared by Manic Mechanic.
The coil spring in the middle of the works is the beast in question.

Well, it should be an animated GIF! I will have to work out why it won't animate here, and I do not know much at all about computer troubleshooting

I cannot figure out hot to get it to animate.
The images came from the "other" site and I feel it to be disrespectful to this site if I were to leave a link to the "other" site.

Last edit so far:
If a moderator were to confirm or deny this as a wrong doing I would appreciate it.

 

[GearNut]

A moderator fixed it for me. Thank you!

 

[KilroyCD]

Glad to be of help.

 

[fritznbud]

After all of my clutch troubles, and reading about new pads or pucks being no better than what they had, I got it! B.F.Goodrich Advantage GT sidewall. I dont know if all sidewalls have the same rough surface inside as the Goodrich, but with a utility knife and a pair of cheap scissors, a pen to trace around the round pad, and not even an hour later, i'm cruising!! And i only did 8 of the 15, just to see if it would work. Not even a squeal out of it.

 

[GearNut]

Necessity is the mother of invention, and recycling is good too!

Please let us know how well your tire sidewall friction pads work out.
Perhaps you have introduced to us a do it yourself way of getting new pads!

 

[fritznbud]

Perfect fix! Sometimes learning the hard way is the best way. Everything posted about clutch adjustment falls into place when you have new pads. I made the remaining 7 pads and tossed a slab of sidewall into my junk drawer. I estimate i had 100 miles on the factory ones so i suspect most of the clutch issues posted here have to do with worn out pads.

 

[GearNut]

My secondhand engine has about 600 miles on it now with the original pads. The clutch still works perfectly.

 

[CHVYPWR]

I finally got an email back from BGF. They say if the flower nut adjustment doen't work, then take a hammer and smack the middle of the clutch plate to make it a little deeper. Not exactly the cure I was hoping for Maybe I'll try fritznbud's tire method.

 

[GearNut]

The smack with hammer trick works to unlock a seized up clutch, which is common on brand new engine. The clutches are known to seize when an engine is sitting for months on end waiting to be sold. Typically though one would smack the bucking bar that sticks out of the sprocket shaft on the left side. I prefer to just powerfully rock the bike fowards and backwards,while sitting on the seat, with the clutch lever held in to un-seize it.
The hammer trick is a last resort.
Thinking about it though, for a slipping condition, if the spring pack were bound up on the sprocket shaft it may actually work. I have never, ever heard of the spring pack getting bound up though.