Engine does not fire up (ignite)

[Stever]

I have a new spark plug and a new coil, producing a strong spark. A new carburetor with new fuel and air filters. The head and cylinder base have been resurfaced. New copper head gasket, new rings. I tried pedaling then disengaged the automatic clutch and turned the engine over using an electric drill on the crank shaft. Not even a splutter! Totally frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I bought this 2007 SE5 used but not running as the throttle and cable into the carb were broken. Any advise will be appreciated.

 

[Wrench]

I have a new spark plug and a new coil, producing a strong spark. A new carburetor with new fuel and air filters. The head and cylinder base have been resurfaced. New copper head gasket, new rings. I tried pedaling then disengaged the automatic clutch and turned the engine over using an electric drill on the crank shaft. Not even a splutter! Totally frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I bought this 2007 SE5 used but not running as the throttle and cable into the carb were broken. Any advise will be appreciated.

I assume you got a new throttle cable,
What carb did you get

Is the valve lash adjusted correctly

Fuel/air, compression, and spark she should start

 

[Stever]

I forgot to mention. Timing is set at standard dot.to.dot at TDC. Both valve clearance set at .012 clearance. Valves have also been ground in the seats with grinding paste rotation.

 

[Stever]

This is the carb I installed, fits perfectly.

 

[Wrench]

I forgot to mention. Timing is set at standard dot.to.dot at TDC. Both valve clearance set at .012 clearance. Valves have also been ground in the seats with grinding paste rotation.

Advance the cam timing dot one tooth counterclockwise

What size Carb is that ?

 

[Wrench]

Whizzer had the cam timing dot stamped one tooth retarded on purpose so they could prove to DOT& EPA the engine had only 1.95hp so the bike could be sold as a M/B Moped in the USA
Advancing the cam gear timing dot one tooth counterclockwise puts the cam in the correct position with 4hp
Shaving the head and a couple more easy modifications can increase the HP even more

But if your cam has a butterfly logo stamped on the gear face the timing dots should be lined up,
This cam came out after your bike was made but IDK maybe the previous owner put it in
(probably not, but the difference in the two cams is worth mentioning)

Whizzer also put a small hole in the carb insulation plate to reduce HP
If your using that plate the hole should be made the same size as the intake port


But I figure your using the insulation plate that came with your new carb

 

[Wrench]

I have a new spark plug and a new coil, producing a strong spark. A new carburetor with new fuel and air filters. The head and cylinder base have been resurfaced. New copper head gasket, new rings. I tried pedaling then disengaged the automatic clutch and turned the engine over using an electric drill on the crank shaft. Not even a splutter! Totally frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I bought this 2007 SE5 used but not running as the throttle and cable into the carb were broken. Any advise will be appreciated.

BTW is the original carb still good?
It's probably a 22mm
84 or 85 main jet is best

 

[Wrench]

I forgot to mention. Timing is set at standard dot.to.dot at TDC. Both valve clearance set at .012 clearance. Valves have also been ground in the seats with grinding paste rotation.

When you set the valve lash at the end of the compression stroke it's 17* before TDC the trigger plate on the flywheel and the P/U should be lined up, set the valve lash

Double check

 

[Wrench]

To find TDC at the end of the compression stroke, watch the valves lifters move the valves up and down
Remove front belt & spark plug
Turning the engine by hand counterclockwise
Exhaust stroke- intake valve closed, exhaust valve open
Intake stroke- Intake valve open, exhaust valve closed
Compression stroke- Intake valve closed, Exhaust valve closed,
Turning the flywheel counterclockwise by hand this is when you line up the flywheel trigger plate and the P/U
Set the valve lash - Intake .008" Exhaust .010"
Turn engine by hand a few revolutions and double check the lash to ensure it's correct

Whizzer recommended both valves set at .009"

But the engine will still run with the valves set anywhere between .002" and .015" but what I suggested is best @ In .008" Ex .010"

 

[Stever]

Thanks for all the info. I just pulled the motor, it’s easier to work on when out of the frame. Going to start checking all the settings suggested. The carb is a 19mm with a 75 jet. This is the same size and style carb that was on the bike. I now know it is not the original, so I copied the wrong one……