LewieBike
Well-Known Member
That clamshell sprocket adapter is going to strip out all of your spokes.
Cargo Bike Build
- Thread starter Mulligan
- Start date
What should I use then?
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Not if he uses a roll pin, he said he's not looking for a ton of power just reliability.
Thanks, Chainlube. Can you explain the "roll pin"?
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
Spring pin - Wikipedia
Basically you drill a hole through the thin side of the clam and the rear bicycle hub all at once, just slightly smaller than the size of roll pin you want to use and press the pin into the hole. It's a good idea to measure the thickness of the thin half of the clam and cut the roll pin a quarter inch longer than that measurement. That way when you put the pin in the hub flush it won't be interfering with the axle.
You can get them at any local hardware store.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
You see these roller pins used in ball bearing nunchuku. If used a lot the bearing caps would eventually loosen and wobble on the sticks. To fix this you could drill a second through hole above the roller pin hole and install a second roller pin in a + pattern. Though it was best to do this before the sticks began to wobble inside of the caps.Spring pin - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Basically you drill a hole through the thin side of the clam and the rear bicycle hub all at once, just slightly smaller than the size of roll pin you want to use and press the pin into the hole. It's a good idea to measure the thickness of the thin half of the clam and cut the roll pin a quarter inch longer than that measurement. That way when you put the pin in the hub flush it won't be interfering with the axle.
You can get them at any local hardware store.
Spring pin - Wikipedia
Basically you drill a hole through the thin side of the clam and the rear bicycle hub all at once, just slightly smaller than the size of roll pin you want to use and press the pin into the hole. It's a good idea to measure the thickness of the thin half of the clam and cut the roll pin a quarter inch longer than that measurement. That way when you put the pin in the hub flush it won't be interfering with the axle.
You can get them at any local hardware store.
Thanks for the explanation. In fact, thanks again, I really appreciate some clarity.
When you say to drill through the clamshell and the hub at the same time, I'm assuming that this procedure needs to be done before the wheel is laced, which is fine with me. I was hoping to use a pair of wheels I already had, but if I have to build a wheel then I am prepared to do that too. Any thoughts on what I should use for a rear hub? The one I was thinking of using is an older Shimano freehub, 135 OLD, which is what the spread of the rear dropouts measure. It probably goes without saying that the roll-pin procedure does not apply to a coaster brake hub.
Sidewinder Jerry
Well-Known Member
I personally wouldn't ever use a coaster brake but I especially wouldn't use one of I was towing anything.
Coaster brakes have their place, but I agree with you about using them on a motored bike. I'm just looking for ideas about what to use to make a good connection between the hub and the clamshell, sizes available verses what is available for the clamshell. There does not seem to be a standard, and no one is saying this is what you need to do, but they all are saying "this is what I did."
If I have to build a wheel for this, I may as well have a slot milled in the hub and the clamshell to accept some 1/8" key stock. That way, if I ever need to adjust the chainline it should be a simple matter of loosening the bolts in the clamshell and repositioning it.
