Anyone have a truly freewheeling bike here?

[sparky]

Once you get into the hills or off-road the pedal gears are a necessary evil on larger bikes. 20in would be just fine for most people for on-road use but generally the frames don't seem large enough to make me and many others comfortable at higher speeds. A BMX MB made for off-roading and high torque could very well be an exciting ride. *****ideas****

Even in New Hampshire, I wouldn't have more than 2 or 3 gears, but I guess that means you still can't use the bicycle-engines.com freewheel since I haven't seen front chainrings that fit BMX chains.

My bike is plenty comfortable for me... tho it's not a traditional 20" BMX; you pretty much need to be 5' 6" or taller to ride. I have a friend who's 6' 2" and has no problem whatsoever... and I'm sure taller people would also enjoy the tall seatpost & handlebars. I definitely need to get a 26" BMX tho. It would be slightly more stable at higher speeds, but I wouldn't expect a huge difference.

Take a look at the HybriPed website, then go and ask one of the distributors about the HybriPed Sprocket.

WOW... It *does* exist!

 

[sparky]

Take a look at the HybriPed website...

How exactly do the pins work?? That part is a bit confusing at a quick glance.

I like how it says "The optimum acheiveable weight of a light motorized bike is 20 kilograms, but they are not there yet." I just weighed mine and it's about 22kg, or 48 lbs. I feel so lucky. I honestly didn't think it weighed that much.

 

[TWalker]

How exactly do the pins work?? That part is a bit confusing at a quick glance.

I like how it says "The optimum acheiveable weight of a light motorized bike is 20 kilograms, but they are not there yet." I just weighed mine and it's about 22kg, or 48 lbs. I feel so lucky. I honestly didn't think it weighed that much.

How did you do it? I've researched how to get the lightest bike possible and 48lbs would have to be an extremely light engine and bike.

For example the Cannondale F9and Staton Robin combo i mentioned in another thread is a bit over 50. The only lighter one i could do is GEBE and a super lightweight bike.

of course I suppose the HT's are around 18-20 LBS but Im not going that way anymore.

 

[ZnsaneRyder]

IMO the drag matters more than the weight. You can get the weight up to speed, but the drag prevents you from keeping speed without tiring out and slowing down. Also you pedal less if you coast further.

 

[sparky]

How did you do it? I've researched how to get the lightest bike possible and 48lbs would have to be an extremely light engine and bike.

Already told ya... I cheated.

And Znsane's right... the drag is what matters most if you're gonna be pedaling. The difference between pedaling 48 lbs and 60 lbs can't be that much of a difference. Eventually, I'm gonna add a couple extra pounds by swapping for this R/S engine I've been holding onto, but oh well. I'll still be coasting like a madman.

 

[HybriPed]

How exactly do the pins work?? That part is a bit confusing at a quick glance.

I like how it says "The optimum acheiveable weight of a light motorized bike is 20 kilograms, but they are not there yet." I just weighed mine and it's about 22kg, or 48 lbs. I feel so lucky. I honestly didn't think it weighed that much.

Manually extract them from the engine transmission side of the bike. That means that you do have to stop the bike for about 30 seconds. Therefore you can't use it like a clutch. On my recent 20 km commute to work, I would engage the engine once. Best things about it is that you keep the pedal start and conventional cassette hub that comes with modern bikes.

There is a video on the website, but I'm aiming to get some more stuff up the website over the weekend, fingers crossed. Also, I want to do a YouTube video as well. Meanwhile I've gotta mow the lawn as well, if you know what I mean ...

Weight - 22kg is pretty good. Mine is actually 27 kg, which is surprisingly ok for most pedal only applications. I think the big issue is being able to manhandle the bike - up stairs and into tight corners in sheds. Try doing that with a 35 kg bike and you see that weight is an important issue.

 

[TWalker]

IMO the drag matters more than the weight. You can get the weight up to speed, but the drag prevents you from keeping speed without tiring out and slowing down. Also you pedal less if you coast further.

ahh ok I see you got the fiveflags bike, hard to keep up with names around here, I forgot you posted that before.

Good points on drag vs. weight. I want to build a full size mountain bike with the best of both qualities.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[ZnsaneRyder]

ahh ok I see you got the fiveflags bike, hard to keep up with names around here, I forgot you posted that before.

Good points on drag vs. weight. I want to build a full size mountain bike with the best of both qualities.

Thanks for all your help.

I'm the guy with the heavy 50mph bike trailer, so I know all about weight and drag, LOL. If I disconnect the drive belt to eliminate drag, I can pedal forever, but with the belt on, it's MUCH harder. Regardless, once the weight gets going it's not bad at all, it's just the drag that makes me get tired of pedaling.

*My new bike in the upcoming future (no trailer) will be a freewheeling 2.5HP 79cc bike rack-mount. Heavy, but no drag. This forum thread is interesting, and TWalker, I wish you the best of luck on your quest for the ultimate freewheeling bicycle.

 

[psmountain]

so what is your opinion of the most freewheeling bike?

[/QUOTE]Ive built many bikes of different kinds and I have yet to have one truly freewheel. By that I mean:

You use it as a bicycle and pedal around but the engine chain doesn't move and or make noise.

1. You coast freely down hills and no chains are moving.....quiet! and smooth. The only resistance is tire on ground,wind and the miniscule resitance of the insides of your freewheels, bearings in wheels etc.

2. No motor drive chains,clutches, PTO's or transmissions are turning while you use it as a bicycle. Each drive is truly independant; manpower drive, engine power drive and gravity powered drive.

3. Lastly; this is easy we all do it: You motor around without pedaling and your bike pedals are stationary.

It should pedal and coast so easily it could be mistaken for motorless bike except for the added weight.

Thanks and if you have done this tell us how.

PS: I own an HT with shifter kit and this doesn't qualify for me..
Nor does getting off the bike and disconnecting anything like a friction drive.[/QUOTE]

TWalker, thanks for the very interesting post and information.

I am brand new to MB and would like to see what you conclude from the discussions on this thread. It's all new to me... I am interested in having a bike that I can actually pedal that meets your criteria above - and then use the motor when needed for extra mileage and to go uphill. I live in Colorado and ride in serious mountain elevation. I'd like to be able to ride for 50 miles and use the motor as an addition to my pedal power. What do you think would be the best set up for this?

 

[TWalker]

I am interested in having a bike that I can actually pedal that meets your criteria above - and then use the motor when needed for extra mileage and to go uphill. I live in Colorado and ride in serious mountain elevation. I'd like to be able to ride for 50 miles and use the motor as an addition to my pedal power. What do you think would be the best set up for this?

Conclusion is Staton inside chain drive Robin Subaru 4 stroke for me. For an off the shelf, lightweight system this is it. Put it on a 25 Lb bike if possible and this is a good motorized bike for mountains if you want to peddle, coast and get up hills.