Whizzer

[mason_man]

I have a bunch of scrap wood and steel bars laying around, so I decided to use some up for motor stands.I have both vintage and new generation whizzer motors that I'm rebuilding right now. I can leave them sit there while I'm thinking what built I want with them.

I wanted to start a thread for us to post some of our projects, big stuff, small stuff, anything is good.

 

[Wrench]

Nice quick and easy motor mount work stands , a little more ingenuity and it'll have two mounting points, bottom and rear/top

 

[mason_man]

Nice quick and easy motor mount work stands , a little more ingenuity and it'll have two mounting points, bottom and rear/top

Yes, I'm thinking I'll start with the 300 motor first. I already have a rolling chassie. A LA barn find, gonna leave it like it is, for now.
1950 July Special

 

[mason_man]

Should match my Christmas present.

 

[mason_man]

Does anyone remember when Taiwan did there ceramic coating with the NE cylinders?
I still have one unused, don't know why used the 2 22mm valves but they did.
The pic of the jug to the left has intake with the 24mm intake valve. This one has given lots of problems, I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Motor ran Tight! Had to pedal like hell All the time. This was a motor that came straight from Taiwan, was said to have some mods.
I decided to break it down, that's when I saw the ceramic coating in the cylinder, when they added the coating they didn't think about the piston clearance, so I had to find a smaller piston or a good used one. It worked.

Ray

 

[Wrench]

No a smaller piston or a well used wasn't needed

To my knowledge the ceramic coating was just on the outside of the cyl not in the cyl boar

I ordered one of those ceramic (painted) cyls from, Paul I was just curious about the ceramic coating and the valve ports. I sent it back

Upon inspection of the cyl, The stock 57mm PREG piston ring end gap was too tight @ .006" should be a minimum .012" max .018"
If the engine was run with a piston ring end gap of .006" it will have a soft seize,
Thermal expansion and the rings end butt together causing a soft seize

Actually the cyl boar needed to be enlarged another .002" because for every .001' the cyl boar is made bigger the PREG will increase by .003"
3.14 x .002" = .00628" or .006" + .006" = .012"
Or the PREG could be filed to get the min- .012" but....

The cyl needed to be measured by a pro to check for proper PTCSWC piston to cylinder side wall clearance = .003" min .006"max

The cyl wasn't honed properly to fit the 57mm piston correctly


It could be easily fixed by honing out the cyl bore until the PREG measured .012" that means the PTCSWC
will be .003"
Fitting a piston should be done by a pro at a machine shop, I almost had the work done but I just decided to send it back
Because I use Westman cyls and got a few extra

 

[mason_man]

With this kind of coating you can't just use the regular stones. This is different but still usable, no need to spend money.

Ray

 

[Wrench]

With this kind of coating you can't just use the regular stones. This is different but still usable, no need to spend money.

Ray

Ok so I guess you can easily fix it,
I always recommend a machine shop because this type of work is beyond most peoples skill set
special measuring tools are needed for the piston & cyl bore and if the PEREG needs to be filed that's not for the newbee

I got a friend at a machine shop, I'll just buy him lunch, He's the same guy that does valve work for me

 

[mason_man]

When I need, almost always, I'm Blessed by them. They're always there, weekdays or weekends. It's like family.

Ray

 

[mason_man]

Some 4yrs ago I was given a whizzer cylinder. A NE cylinder that was badly abused, ever hole in it was played with. Some good and some not so good. The exhaust port was done well, the intake port was opened up for the 22mm carburetor, an air/oil pipe was installed, all good things. Now the not so, all the cylinder head threads had been stripped. 2 heli-coil had been placed in each 8mm head threads, all 7 of them. This was a bad idea, I couldn't get a proper torque. The threads didn't line up.
Recently I decided I'd try and figure what might be a good solution, the only 2 good threads were the 10mm. So all 7 8mm are now 10mm threads.
The cly bore had a window, must of ran really Hot. It finally cleared up at 30 over.
I also removed the plug for the compression release and sealed it.

Now the more better news, I have a 2005 Black 24"wheel whizzer waiting for it. it's the one that went to Indianapolis dealer expo in February.

Ray