Tuning stock carb

I got a 2005 NE-5
I was gonna show ya a few modifications, But I'm not sure how far to safely push the HP on the WC-1
Yeah, lets wait for Ray
 
You say your not Mechanically Inclined,
If all this is beyond your skill set then your gonna have to find someone to help you, I'll do my best to explain it. OK

Heat Insulation Plate / Restriction Plate Modification

The heat insulation plate keeps the engine heat transfer away from the carb,
Without it the gas in the float bowl can boil and cause vapor lock until the engine & carb cool down again
However Whizzer made the hole in it small to reduce the HP so the bike could be sold in the USA and meet many state motorbicycle/moped regrestration laws

Heat Insulation Plate / Restriction Plate location is here
DSCF2199.JPG


The Modification is to enlarge the hole in the Plate to match the intake port
The Modification is necessary to get more HP
Here are some pics of it on a NE-5 engine, Hole has been enlarged to match the intake port
DSCF2197.JPG
DSCF2198.JPG

Be careful when enlarging the hole don't break it,

Don't forget Ray suggested a #78 Main Jet
 
Exhaust Baffle/Silencer Modification

1999 WC-1 Muffler Baffle/Silencer in the end of the muffler has some packing in it.
The Muffler Baffle is held in place with one screw at the end of the muffler, Remove the screw and the Baffle will pull out
You'll notice White insulation Packing, it's too restrictive and hurts performance,
Remove the white insulation packing and put the baffle back in the muffler.
 
Advance Cam Timing

Whizzer also retarded the Cam Timing by one tooth to reduce the HP
You'll need to remove the engine RH side cover to access the Cam
You'll see the timing dots on the cam gear and on the crank gear
To advance the cam timing

1) Remove belt guard & spark plug
2) Take off the primary belt (front belt)
3) Remove the engine RH side cover
4) Line up the timing dots on the cam and crank gears
5) Grab the cam gear and pull out the cam a little and advance the timing dot one tooth counterclockwise
6) Reassemble
Note: when you do #4 if the cam gear timing dot lines up one tooth counterclockwise from the crank gear timing dot, then the timing has already been advanced.
 
Since you say your not mechanically inclined Lets see if you can accomplish these few Basic Modifications I have already showed you before we go any farther

Next will be checking the Valve Lash
Intake .008"
Exhaust .010"

Stuff like this needs to be done when tuning up a Whizzer
 
Ok I enlarged the hole, didn't break it. I have a good friend who is great with motors and motorcycles. With a couple beers after the work, he'll do the more involved processes. He just loves doing this and now he's looking for a Whizzer 😁
 
Ok I enlarged the hole, didn't break it. I have a good friend who is great with motors and motorcycles. With a couple beers after the work, he'll do the more involved processes. He just loves doing this and now he's looking for a Whizzer 😁
I've shared these posts with him and he's letting me get some on the job training
 
I've shared these posts with him and he's letting me get some on the job training
OK good, maybe ya want to upgrade the muffler baffle/sclincer? I recommend it

This in the upgraded High Flow Muffler Baffle/Silencer,
If it has a spark arrestor tab on one end, cut that off because it hurts performance
This Upgraded Baffle/Silencer is High Flow leave the packing on it.
The High Flow Baffle is the best to get you Whizzer tuned Properly,


 
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