The craziness continues

[DAMIEN1307]

they're recessed so you can't get vice grips on them. Any tips?

I've always been partial to M-80s and dynamite and C-4 myself...lol...Anything that goes "boom" will usually loosen up anything and everything quick and easy...lol...lol.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Hear ya, GW. I know you're not supposed to look a gift horse in the mouth, but this ATV has been ridden hard and put up wet! I never catered to ATVs, but this one fell into my lap and I couldn't resist tearing into it. One thing I don't understand about Polaris is their tendency to use Allen head bolts in hard to get to locations or places where mud and water accumulates causing them to rust. Take the running board bolts, for example. Not only are they rusted, they're recessed so you can't get vice grips on them. Any tips?

Hmm, I haven't had the pleasure of having to take mine apart lol. I understand that yours is a little more beaten up than mine lol.

 

[Wrench]

Allen head bolts in hard to get to locations or places where mud and water accumulates causing them to rust. Take the running board bolts, for example. Not only are they rusted, they're recessed so you can't get vice grips on them. Any tips?

The allen head must be stripped if your gonna use vice grips
Drill the head off the bolt then when ya remove the floorboard use the vice grips to remove the rest of the bolt

 

[wrenchin 4 fun]

Some finishing touches on the bike today. Didn't like the way my original home made handlebars interfered with the speedometer so I chucked them for a pair of Z-bars made from vintage pedal levers and handlebars from a vintage Sears rototiller. The change required a complete rework of cables and wiring which I finally completed this morning. You will note from one of the photos, I mounted a silver plated button from my Air Force blues in the head tube. Another shot shows how I made a rear mount for my fuel tank that automatically levels the tank on the top tube while vastly simplifying installation and removal. A vintage 3-speed suicide-type shifter used on my first build will control my new Shimano 3-speed hub which is now mounted in a Rhino Light double walled aluminum rim using 12 gauge SS spokes. I still need to remove the derailleur/freewheel rim and change the skewer mount to slotted dropouts. I have never been comfortable with a hollow axle on a motorized bike.

Spent a couple of frustrating hours redoing the wiring to make it as compact as possible {As the photos show, I'm as proficient at this as I am welding and painting!}. All of the connections are soldered instead of pinched and the wiring is strung through shrink tube to protect it from chafing. The front fender mount is some of my best work. There are two M8 bolts that hold the fender and speedo cable stabilizer in place. The mount itself is welded to the push tubes so it rides with the wheel keeping its placement consistent. The little 12 volt, 6 AH battery holds a steady 13 volt charge and has plenty of strength to drive the horn and lights. Am contemplating whether to add turn signals later on which would require another round of frustrating wiring.

When I'm finished, the only stock bicycle part will be the aluminum MB frame. I've learned the hard way that if I had it to do all over again, I'd start from scratch. What's the old saying, " You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear unless you start out with a silk sow!"

 

[wrenchin 4 fun]

Conversion complete. Down from 7 gears to 3! Retrofitting the dropouts for the IGH was harder than I expected. Check out the before and after photos for the difference between the derailleur and the bellcrank driven IGH. Modified the drop down stand with larger grade 8 bolts on the pivot points, but now it works even better than before. Cutting the chain adjustment slots to just the right dimensions challenged my rudimentary machining skills. Through the years I've accumulated a good selection of files which proved to be invaluable and my Dremel tool helped too. Swapped out both discs for 203mm and chucked the generic calipers for my Avid Juicy BB7s. Stumbled across a set of new pads in my parts bin, so I threw those on the front. Astute viewers will notice I replaced the stock MB brake levers with motorcycle types and I coupled them with a heavier scooter cable on the front for extra strength. The suicide shifter works perfectly. I like how the indexing gives off a distinct click between shifts. No guessing, and no delay like with the derailleur.

Could have stuck with stock rim, though unbranded, it's a double-walled aluminum rim of high quality. Fodder for another build? Wiring harness is still a little ratty, but passable. Patched in a ground wire from brake switches to rear light for when I purchase a tail light assembly with brake light.

I've done about all I can think of, so excuse me while I wake up the little Honda for another spin!

 

[Risk Man]

Wow! Beautiful build, design and look of quality! Great job!!!!

 

[darwin]

I've always been partial to M-80s and dynamite and C-4 myself...lol...Anything that goes "boom" will usually loosen up anything and everything quick and easy...lol...lol.

Use to fish with m80's, it works and illegal as all get out. Fish would be floating on top 30ft away from where the m80 was thrown in.

 

[wrenchin 4 fun]

Appreciate it, Risk Man. Is that a Whizzer in your Avatar?

 

[Wrench]

Appreciate it, Risk Man. Is that a Whizzer in your Avatar?

WAS But he's got more

 

[Nickt919]

Use to fish with m80's, it works and illegal as all get out. Fish would be floating on top 30ft away from where the m80 was thrown in.

That there is a 2 prong problem. Just getting caught possessing m-80’s is a serious felony…much less letting a game warden catch someone fishing with them.

Up until the mid 1960’s I could buy m-80’s by the gross…as a small kid alone..for about $4.

One new year celebration I blew the bottom out of my grandma’s metal garbage can with an m-80 and a piece of the steel lodged itself in my sister butt..
That ended my new year’s festivities for me…until the next year.