Clutch is always slipping no matter what

[Redm777]

I now have a pretty good idea on how these clutches work I’ve disassembled them down to the shaft. But this issue has me stumped.. clutch is always slipping and the accuating bar is far in also.. I’ve fixed the divot in the arm by welding and filing. I have the flower nut adjusted properly, I’ve replaced the pads I tried a different clutch plate and the clutch is still slipping! I was thinking the bucking bar, but no it doesn’t have bad wear from what I’ve seen. I don’t know what’s wrong with it!
Edit: my new black and white pads are the same thickness as my old black n white ones that have have around 500 abusive miles on them

 

[Chainlube]

Are you adjusting the flower nut with the handle pulled in and locked?
There is no spring in between the arm and the adjuster sleeve.

From your picture, the arm doesn't look like it's positioned right on the rod.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Are you adjusting the flower nut with the handle pulled in and locked?
There is no spring in between the arm and the adjuster sleeve.

From your picture, the arm doesn't look like it's positioned right on the rod.

Or the clutch lever is pulled all the way inward and locked in place.

 

[Redm777]

Are you adjusting the flower nut with the handle pulled in and locked?
There is no spring in between the arm and the adjuster sleeve.

From your picture, the arm doesn't look like it's positioned right on the rod.

that's where the arm contacts the bucking bar. That far in is right where I feel it about to push then I tighten the cable screw always have worked fine on all of my bikes. And the I run it without the cable spring it doesn't do anything its just junk..

 

[Chainlube]

You'll have to start it up, place it on the kick stand and release the screw and watch what happens. If it's still slipping then it's the plate side, if it's not, then it's the cable side.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

For the sake of argument, I'm listing the correct clutch adjustment proceedure here for you to check it out.

First, make sure (that when you do this alignment of the clutch actuating arm is in the position in pic below), that the clutch lever is in the fully released position so that the clutch pads and pressure plates will then be in the fully ENGAGED postion.

It should look exactly like mine in this picture below with the CLUTCH LEVER in the FULLY RELEASED POSITION.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions below this pic to adjust the flower nut, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that adjusts the clutch plate distance from the clutch pads and located under the cover on the right hand side of the motor...lol.

When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you now have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place, the clutch pads and pressure plates will now be in the DISENGAGED position.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely.

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.

 

[Redm777]

For the sake of argument, I'm listing the correct clutch adjustment proceedure here for you to check it out.

First, make sure (that when you do this alignment of the clutch actuating arm is in the position in pic below), that the clutch lever is in the fully released position so that the clutch pads and pressure plates will then be in the fully ENGAGED postion.

It should look exactly like mine in this picture below with the CLUTCH LEVER in the FULLY RELEASED POSITION.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions below this pic to adjust the flower nut, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that adjusts the clutch plate distance from the clutch pads and located under the cover on the right hand side of the motor...lol.

When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you now have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place, the clutch pads and pressure plates will now be in the DISENGAGED position.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely.

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.

So I did some trouble shooting… I used both of your guys tactics… and guess what it’s still slipping… even when the bar is maxed out on the carb. I have a couple questions why are my new clutch pads the same thickness as my old ones and why is clutch arm engagement so far in , even when it’s still slipping.. when the clutch arm is far in it means a tighter flower nut is pulling the inner shaft, and the inner shaft is maxed and it’s still slipping!

 

[DAMIEN1307]

So I did some trouble shooting… I used both of your guys tactics… and guess what it’s still slipping… even when the bar is maxed out on the carb. I have a couple questions why are my new clutch pads the same thickness as my old ones and why is clutch arm engagement so far in , even when it’s still slipping.. when the clutch arm is far in it means a tighter flower nut is pulling the inner shaft, and the inner shaft is maxed and it’s still slipping!

Is that little ball bearing/throwout bearing in place behind the bucking bar???...If its missing, that would certainly be a problem...People have had them roll out when they have taken the bucking bars out and never even notice until they can't seem to engage in gear without slippage.

 

[Chainlube]

So I did some trouble shooting… I used both of your guys tactics… and guess what it’s still slipping… even when the bar is maxed out on the carb. I have a couple questions why are my new clutch pads the same thickness as my old ones and why is clutch arm engagement so far in , even when it’s still slipping.. when the clutch arm is far in it means a tighter flower nut is pulling the inner shaft, and the inner shaft is maxed and it’s still slipping!

You can remove the nut on the end of the actuator rod and move the rod out. Splined end, just tap it off.

 

[Chainlube]

Is that little ball bearing/throwout bearing in place behind the bucking bar???...If its missing, that would certainly be a problem...People have had them roll out when they have taken the bucking bars out and never even notice until they can't seem to engage in gear without slippage.

If the ball is missing, it's in gear all the time.