Clutch/engine seized cylinder head won’t come off

Toby woodman

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I have a new 66cc engine kit. While I was riding it, the engine started clicking and then Stalled. When I tried to re start it, the clutch started slipping. I have cleaned and de greased the clutch pads and adjusted it but it still slips and the engine won’t turn over. When I go to take the cylinder head off, only the main cylinder wall will come off. Help would be appreciated. If you have any questions ask and I can also send more photos. Thanks

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For the sake of argument, I'm listing the correct clutch adjustment proceedure here for you to check it out.

First, make sure (that when you do this alignment of the clutch actuating arm is in the position in pic below), that the clutch lever is in the fully released position so that the clutch pads and pressure plates will then be in the fully ENGAGED postion.

It should look exactly like mine in this picture below with the CLUTCH LEVER in the FULLY RELEASED POSITION.

AFTER, you do this correctly, THEN follow the instructions below this pic to adjust the flower nut, The flower nut adjustment is the adjustment that adjusts the clutch plate distance from the clutch pads and located under the cover on the right hand side of the motor...lol.

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When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you now have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place, the clutch pads and pressure plates will now be in the DISENGAGED position.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely...If you forget to put the set screw back, your clutch will back off and start slipping

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position
and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.
 
Please also take a picture of the bike with the engine on it so we can see the angle of the motor...The angle appears to be too extreme and tilted in such a way where it would be flooding out the motor...The carburetor should be almost level, not at an extreme angle tipped more than 10 degrees.
 
Don't have enough usable information to make that judgement call as of yet.

Others will be along to see this post of yours, folks like @Chainlube, @DieselTech, @Karl Snarl, etc. who will probably have more pointed questions to draw out of you in order to ascertain more correctly what exactly the problem may be.
 
The clutch has been adjusted properly
With the pic you provided, the clutch doesn't seem to be correctly adjusted as the flower nut is not locked into place with the set screw that I previously mentioned must be in place so as not to back off resulting in clutch slippage.

The protrusions on the flower nut are also covering the set screw holes.

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According to the picture, there also appears to be quite amount of cable slack...that spring should be tight up against that screw/nut type cable housing hole that the cable is snaked through in order to get to the clutch actuating arm...I see slackend cable showing without the spring with any tension at all against that housing.
 
With the pic you provided, the clutch doesn't seem to be correctly adjusted as the flower nut is not locked into place with the set screw that I previously mentioned must be in place so as not to back off resulting in clutch slippage.

The protrusions on the flower nut are also covering the set screw holes.

image-jpg.188343
Yeah looking at that I'm wondering now if the clutch pin fell partially out of clutch shaft & locked up against the engine case. If that's possible. But it dont explain why the cylinder wont pull off if thats the case.
 
The bike is on a bike stand which tilts the bike. The clutch has been adjusted properly and the engine will not turn over. Should I return it?
Is that a 1 piece cylinder? Or does it have a separate cylinder head also? More pics of engine might help us a little better with diagnosis.
i think it is a 2 piece. I can see a metal gasket between what looks like a point where the cylinder head can be removed
 
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