Clutch Clutch arm No tension & wheel moves easily

jumpjr619

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Oct 22, 2022
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So I'm working on a motor for a friend and first thing I noticed was it was easy to push the bike without holding in the clutch. Since I knew he needed a bucking bar I thought this was weird. So I replaced the bucking bar and bearing and put semi new clutch pads in and still same issue I pulled the jug off and saw he was missing his piston rings. My concern is why there is so little resistance in the wheel and why isnt the clutch plate moving away when I engage the clutch. When the plate is off I can visually see the bolt that the wing nut is on moving slightly but when the wing nut is on with the plate I can't see the plate move away to disengage the pads please help
 
I pulled the jug off and saw he was missing his piston rings.
No wonder nothing is working, start by asking the first real question of your friend, how did he even think this would run without the piston rings being installed...There is nothing else for me to address here until that is done FIRST...One problem at a time, this one is obviously multiple problems.

Ps...Some pictures would be worthwhile to post here as well.
 
No wonder nothing is working, start by asking the first real question of your friend, how did he even think this would run without the piston rings being installed...There is nothing else for me to address here until that is done FIRST...One problem at a time, this one is obviously multiple problems.

Ps...Some pictures would be worthwhile to post here as well.
Rings are on still no resistance. He didn't expect it to run without rings he didn't know what was wrong with it
 
Rings are on still no resistance. He didn't expect it to run without rings he didn't know what was wrong with it
OK, Rings are now on the piston and the jug is reassembled and hopefully torqued down to 144 inch pounds of torque with is also 12 foot pounds of torque and only performed in an X pattern and will still need to be done for the next 200 miles at the very least and only when cold after each and every heat cycle.

Now lets get to proper clutch adjustments...I have posted this proceedure many times in this forum already and will just put the link below so you can read and perform a proper clutch adjustment from scratch, beginning to end.

I am assuming your friend did not adjust the clutch to proper proceedures to begin with and you should assume the same as well.


Don't forget to use only just a dab of either white lithium grease or Lucas red and tacky on the clutch gears as well as both ends of the bucking bar being careful to observe there is a slightly concave end on the bucking bar that needs to be the end that rests against the ball bearing.
 
Remove safety screw and turn center flower nut in until contact is made, then pull lever and turn the flower nut some more. Finish by putting in safety screw.
 

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How far down do I need to screw the flower nut on
I mentioned that already on that tutorial I posted for you and told you to follow it to the letter...lol.

Remove the flowernut set screw and then tighten the flowernut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the flowernut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel turns freely...If you forget to put the set screw back, your clutch will back off and start slipping

When you release the lever it should of course now have the clutch totally locked up in the totally ENGAGED position
and at this point you should have all the slippage totally out of it.
 
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