AussieSteve
Active Member
On the clutch side of things, found a great improvement today. On the semi-circular bottom edge of the clutch pivot lever, I rounded off the contact edge to about 0.5mm-0.8mm depth and smoothed the flat surface of the contact area of the semi-circular section. Smoothing the contact area of the bucking bar also helps.
Grinders etc. only, don't bother trying with a file - it's hard.
N.B. 'Bucking Bar' is a Chinese factory term, not mine.
My idea was that the clutch separates more than is really necessary when disengaged, and that by rounding, (narrowing), the edge of the pivot, the (fully disengaged) plate separation would decrease, but feel and leverage would increase.
Works beautifully.
Along with that, by loosening/tightening the (clover nut) adjustment until the clutch just disengages when pinned, so that the clutch take-up happens when the lever is about half-way out, the clutch feels normal.
The overall difference has to be felt to be believed.
Almost like a nice, light, Honda clutch.
Love these minor mods. Cost: 0$ (Just right.)
...Steve
A sketch. Hope you can understand what I mean:-
Grinders etc. only, don't bother trying with a file - it's hard.
N.B. 'Bucking Bar' is a Chinese factory term, not mine.
My idea was that the clutch separates more than is really necessary when disengaged, and that by rounding, (narrowing), the edge of the pivot, the (fully disengaged) plate separation would decrease, but feel and leverage would increase.
Works beautifully.
Along with that, by loosening/tightening the (clover nut) adjustment until the clutch just disengages when pinned, so that the clutch take-up happens when the lever is about half-way out, the clutch feels normal.
The overall difference has to be felt to be believed.
Almost like a nice, light, Honda clutch.
Love these minor mods. Cost: 0$ (Just right.)
...Steve
A sketch. Hope you can understand what I mean:-
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