Al.Fisherman
Active Member
at Stan....What can I say....We supply the books, and all they want to do is chew on the covers.
Clutch keeps.. doing something.
- Thread starter Hajuu
- Start date
at Stan....What can I say....We supply the books, and all they want to do is chew on the covers.
haha ok sorry, I had a look and saw some helpful parts.
I did look at it but didn't get just from the pictures for the first part, thus why I asked for further directions if you'll see my previous post. I should have referenced back to it. Going to go see what I can do now.
Cheers for the help (not the attitude).
I did look at it but didn't get just from the pictures for the first part, thus why I asked for further directions if you'll see my previous post. I should have referenced back to it. Going to go see what I can do now.
Cheers for the help (not the attitude
).ok awesome! progress! Got the drive sprocket, so now just have the central shaft going through
Now that the chain is disengaged (not connected) ive noticed that turning the shaft, its *very* rough and hard to turn when the notch in the shaft is at the top (facing upwards).
Is this normal/Indicative of anything I should be aware of?
Now that the chain is disengaged (not connected) ive noticed that turning the shaft, its *very* rough and hard to turn when the notch in the shaft is at the top (facing upwards).
Is this normal/Indicative of anything I should be aware of?
Bleh. after this removal was accomplished I cleaned the whole area up with some RP7 (degreaser,lubricant), a lot of metal shards started comming out
Now it's a lot smoother but the shaft has quite a lot of movement (im assuming there should be none or near enough to) and it still sometimes gets 'stuck'
I'm thinking a bearing might have gone? But the replacement kit doesnt seem to have any replacements.. ?
I also assume at this point its neccisary to crack the casing to fix this? Still cant work out how the shafts seals come out.
Now it's a lot smoother but the shaft has quite a lot of movement (im assuming there should be none or near enough to) and it still sometimes gets 'stuck'
I'm thinking a bearing might have gone? But the replacement kit doesnt seem to have any replacements.. ?
I also assume at this point its neccisary to crack the casing to fix this?
Still cant work out how the shafts seals come out.Ok so.. got the outer seals out the only way that seemed even remotely possible.. by bending a part of it a bit then wedging it out (there was no cutaway and no gap in the edge practically)
Now I can see the two ball bearing brackety type washer things - how do I get those out?
figure thats pretty important before that shaft can come out (if thats even an issue if it turns out to be a bearing)
Seems to me this 'clutch repair kit' really isnt the all in one clutch fixer that it claims to be if it doesnt replace crucial bearings.. Might have to have a word to my dealer about that, would you guys agree?
Now I can see the two ball bearing brackety type washer things - how do I get those out?
figure thats pretty important before that shaft can come out (if thats even an issue if it turns out to be a bearing)
Seems to me this 'clutch repair kit' really isnt the all in one clutch fixer that it claims to be if it doesnt replace crucial bearings.. Might have to have a word to my dealer about that, would you guys agree?
HeadSmess
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:18 AM
- Joined
- May 17, 2010
- Messages
- 3,048
nah.
i believe youre talking the main shaft bearings.... something i mentioned waaaay back
um...typical single race bearings, from any bearing supplier, about $10 a pop... something like a 6202 id guess... it should be written on the side of the races anyway... or just measure them. never looked, myself...
now why have they failed?
just dodgy, inadequate lube, put in improperly/not square...or the cases are....um.... roo ted... either the holes arent aligned in the two sides, or arent completely circular, undersize...
or the shaft is bent, oversize, not concentric......
yes, you have to split the case to replace them.
i believe youre talking the main shaft bearings.... something i mentioned waaaay back
um...typical single race bearings, from any bearing supplier, about $10 a pop... something like a 6202 id guess... it should be written on the side of the races anyway... or just measure them.
never looked, myself... now why have they failed?
just dodgy, inadequate lube, put in improperly/not square...or the cases are....um.... roo ted... either the holes arent aligned in the two sides, or arent completely circular, undersize...
or the shaft is bent, oversize, not concentric......
yes, you have to split the case to replace them.
As I said, there's quite a bit of movement in the shaft, but as far as I can see thatd be fairly right for a missing bearing. Still trying to take the guard things out (the curled metal thing) to get a look at it without really messing it up.
But even after really cleaning it out as best as I can without taking the shaft out (which I still cant work out how to get the seals out...) its still getting very very stuck in certain points.
Really dont want to have to crack the case on this thing...
But even after really cleaning it out as best as I can without taking the shaft out (which I still cant work out how to get the seals out...) its still getting very very stuck in certain points.
Really dont want to have to crack the case on this thing...
