Another Useful HT Clutch Mod

Tri-Flow is great for cables and hinges 'n stuff. Just do not try to use it to lubricate the ball bearing that is behing the "bucking bar". That NEEDS a good quality grease.

P.S. Tri-flow is an all purpose light duty lubricant fortified with teflon.
 
While fitting my shift kit, I noticed that the (reasonably soft) clutch push-rod, (bucking bar), still had slight marks from the edge of the pivot cam digging in. The push-rod is a bit soft, out of the box. This is part of the reason that the clutch is so hard to pull in.
To try to alleviate this, I smoothed and polished the rod end, then heated the rod to cherry-red and quenched it in cold water to temper it a little more. Also did a bit more smoothing and polishing on the cam edge.
I'll report on success/failure after a few rides.

... Steve
 
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i had a question about where the grinding was done.

the schematic drawn is a top view of the pin that the clutch lever turns. the rounded section is where the pin contacts the "bucking bar" that oushes through the center of the main drive gear.
 
Here's a sketch. The original was a bit 'sketchy' - no pun intended:-
(Thanks Crobo, for pointing it out.)

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Regarding hardening the bucking-bar, I had limited success. It's definitely better than before, but still isn't hard enough.
A piece of old drill bit, ground down and polished to suit, appears much better. The hard metal of a drill bit isn't damaged by the pivot cam.
 

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Wow! It seriously took me more time to readjust my clutch cable than it did to grind the pivot cam with a dremel! I had always been annoyed that no matter how I adjusted my clutch cable it never quite worked right with the little lock out button on the lever. This completely fixed that! Thanks!
 
Easy. With the side-cover removed, rotate the pivot and when in the right position it will slip right out. (There's a locating pin in the side-cover that engages a groove in the pivot.)
 
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