Engine Trouble someone please help front engine mount bolt broken inside

busted motor mount studs?

I've had a couple break on me, if they don't have loktite on em take a little hacksaw the cheapo 1handed jobber and cut a slot in the busted stud don't worry about cutting into the cases and try to keep it centered on the busted stud. Then put some liquid wrench or penetrating oil let it soak for a while and put yer lil flathead screwdriver in the slot and bear down on it and it should start backin out. Remember the width of scrwdrvr tip can't be bigger than the bolt diameter.and if you slip out of the slot just clean it up wit yer hacksw. I know it sounds okie but it works I've taken them out of friends bike, 1time with the motor still in bike with the chain on. I haven't had any luck with extractors on sml dia bolts. If you can't get it, drill and tap above it, and make the adjustment on mounting plate, if it's the rear you'll have to drill and tap 2 new holes so your bracket will work. If your not mechanically inclined find someone who is that's not gonna charge you more than the cost of a short motor!
 
too late. Ive drilled too much for that method. Got new bits today. Gonna start it soon to se if I can finish the extracting process
 
You need to tap a center hole in the end of the stud (not easy) to keep your drill bit square and not wandering to the side.
Then just drill slow with some oil until you have enough to get the reverse thread tapered easyout bit to bite.
Then just back it out slowly until you have enough stud out to grab it with pillars or something to finish the extraction job.

Just a tip...
DON'T USE ANYTHING BETWEEN THE ENGINE MOUNT AND FRAME!
Your engine should be mounted so tight directly to the frame that you can hold the top bar with one hand, the motor head with the other, and push back and forth AS HARD AS YOU CAN and the engine should not budge AT ALL.

In short you don't get rid of engine vibration with mount insulation, in fact you might find that an engine securely mounted to the frame works well if you do it right, for example getting back mount at a 90 to the seat post and then securing the front.
 
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Good info,my bike the motor is tight to the frame no plate w ubolt. On my nirve I had to use plate and ubolt or it'd make contact w sprocket. Who makes a motor mount kit, preferably with a block of hard rubber included.
 
was able to drill it successfully but not extract it successfully. I cant get a good enough grip on the extractor reverse bit to reverse the bolt out. It seems I need a huge pair of jaw locking pliers or something that will tightly hold the reverse bit. Ive tried my medium size locking pliers, vice grips, electric drill but nothing has the grip on it
 
That's the downside of locktight, especially red if that's what you used.
 
too much work at getting those out can leave the metal of the cases so fatigued that it won't hold the new studs properly if one does get it out - that is the point at which the angle iron approach becomes necessary
 
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