Risky's 2008 Ambassador II Whizzer Rebuild

[GW's Motorized]

Dark green sounds cool

 

[Risk Man]

Can this sealed bearing be re greased by prying the metal shiel off? It turns fine but don’t want to overlook opportunities for improvement as i reassemble

 

[Urban Fatbiker]

Can this sealed bearing be re greased by prying the metal shiel off? It turns fine but don’t want to overlook opportunities for improvement as i reassemble

In my experience it’ll compromise the seal, and I’ve handled my share of them over a few decades. Quality sealed bearings don’t need any help, and a cheap one can’t be helped. Not my opinion, but most definitely my experience.

 

[Wrench]

Can this sealed bearing be re greased by prying the metal shiel off? It turns fine but don’t want to overlook opportunities for improvement as i reassemble

Nope the metal shields will bend if ya remove them and can't be put back on good enough.

Get Sealed bearings with rubber seals The rubber seals can be popped off and on to add grease
Use a small pick to pop the RS off and use your fingers to pop it back on

BTW I had a brand new sealed bearing (wheel bearing) start squeaking
Upon inspection, removing the rubber shields I noticed the bearing didn't have enough grease
Now I make it a common practice to check and add grease to new sealed bearings

This is a brand new wheel bearing that was squeaking - not enough grease

 

[Risk Man]

Nope the metal shields will bend if ya remove them and can't be put back on good enough.

Get Sealed bearings with rubber seals The rubber seals can be popped off and on to add grease
Use a small pick to pop the RS off and use your fingers to pop it back on

View attachment 210761
View attachment 210762
View attachment 210767
BTW I had a brand new sealed bearing (wheel bearing) start squeaking
Upon inspection, removing the rubber shields I noticed the bearing didn't have enough grease
Now I make it a common practice to check and add grease to new sealed bearings

This is a brand new wheel bearing that was squeaking - not enough grease
View attachment 210766

Thanks.. have serviced the rubber ones but was not sure about the metal ones…

 

[Risk Man]

Here is the magic and effectiveness of "Evaporust". This pulley looked like it was not salvageable when I took it off the bike. 6 hours in Evaporust and a little wire brushing to bring up the sheen.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Here is the magic and effectiveness of "Evaporust". This pulley looked like it was not salvageable when I took it off the bike. 6 hours in Evaporust and a little wire brushing to bring up the sheen.

If your patient wd40 works well too. I've had the fork springs for my ct90 soaking in it for a few months now and almost all the rust is gone lol.

 

[Risk Man]

If your patient wd40 works well too. I've had the fork springs for my ct90 soaking in it for a few months now and almost all the rust is gone lol.

$27 gallon at H F tools… wait for coupon… even cheaper. Pour through paint strainer back in the jug and reuse it many times

 

[Risk Man]

Paint: I have sanded all the rust off of the frame components and done first coat of primer to keep the rust off. I know I will need to sand and prime a few more coats for a smooth surface to paint. My fenders are not rusted and are just dull paint. My tank is brand new shiny black paint as was the rest of the bike. I am pretty set on changing the color to burgundy with some gold pin striping. My question is, do I need to do any more than "scuff" sand the fenders and the new tank for paint, or do I need to prime them as well? Body and paint work on metal is not my specialty. I am fine with the prep but don't want to over do it.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Paint: I have sanded all the rust off of the frame components and done first coat of primer to keep the rust off. I know I will need to sand and prime a few more coats for a smooth surface to paint. My fenders are not rusted and are just dull paint. My tank is brand new shiny black paint as was the rest of the bike. I am pretty set on changing the color to burgundy with some gold pin striping. My question is, do I need to do any more than "scuff" sand the fenders and the new tank for paint, or do I need to prime them as well? Body and paint work on metal is not my specialty. I am fine with the prep but don't want to over do it.

Scuff sanding it just enough to get through whatever clear coat is left and just into the top coat of color should be enough on the fenders and tank.