Read this before you buy/install a hub adapter for your sprocket!

Hub adaptor is the way to go , I seen some fails of the spoke clamp style and it wasn't pretty

When I did the hub adaptor on my E-Zip , I couldn't find the right size , so I bought a 1" diameter hub adaptor and got my buddy at the machine shop to cut it , was a little afraid that it would not be the right size when finished , but so far it has held , wish I would have taken the extra time to add a set screw or two View attachment 104350
Just wanted to note: The hub you've clamped the sprocket adapter to looks like a 3 piece hub.

The hub center and spoke flanges are 3 different pieces and are at best, swaged together. If you could disassemble the hub from the rim and have a friend who's good at precise TIG welding, you could tack the 3 pieces together. You would not need a lot of welding, it's better to keep the affected area small so you don't untemper the bearing cups. Which BTW are also not always as good as an alloy hub's cups.

Just a FYI so you don't have this fail at speed and have a repeat of the OP's problem.
 
I'm of the opinion that disc brake adapters are probably the best solution to hub drives. Or given an ability to build a new wheel, build from scratch a 12 gauge spoked wheel and use a rag joint on it. I'd go with the best, heavy duty double wall rim you can find.
 
Just wanted to note: The hub you've clamped the sprocket adapter to looks like a 3 piece hub.

The hub center and spoke flanges are 3 different pieces and are at best, swaged together. If you could disassemble the hub from the rim and have a friend who's good at precise TIG welding, you could tack the 3 pieces together. You would not need a lot of welding, it's better to keep the affected area small so you don't untemper the bearing cups. Which BTW are also not always as good as an alloy hub's cups.

Just a FYI so you don't have this fail at speed and have a repeat of the OP's problem.
Thanks for the info , I am new to motorized bikes , built that E-Zip conversion last year , the odometer only shows right over 300 miles

Didn't every hear about 3 piece hubs before ---- that hub in the pic was driven by an electric motor before , but would guess from what your saying the center section could rotate as it was being driven thru the innards ????
 
Thanks for the info , I am new to motorized bikes , built that E-Zip conversion last year , the odometer only shows right over 300 miles

Didn't every hear about 3 piece hubs before ---- that hub in the pic was driven by an electric motor before , but would guess from what your saying the center section could rotate as it was being driven thru the innards ????
There's a chance it'll stay together without tacking, but they were intended for human power levels, and those hubs were looked upon by bicycle mechanics as kinda cheesy.

My own HT engined bike ...
DSC00059.JPG
is running a 48 cc 2 cycle with an older Schwinn LeTour rear hub made by Shimano. It's all cast aluminum, thick flanges and the sprocket on my bike is rubber cush bolted to the left side flange of the LeTour hub. I've only ridden over 400 miles but it's keeping it's concentricity and not wobbling yet. Crossing fingers.
 
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