Read this before you buy/install a hub adapter for your sprocket!

Now 1.5 hub with no spacer in the middle if sanding too much would be different I assume . Might not line up right
 
Hello All,
I just finished the process or replacing my entire rear wheel and inner tube due to a slipping hub adapter. It cost about $100 and was a pain to do. The adapter slipped and bent all the spokes, puncturing the inner tube causing the wheel to badly deform. Hub adapters are better and safer than the rag joint clamps that come with the engine kits but have the same potential to destroy your rear wheel if not installed properly! So please read the tips below before installing a hub adapter so you don't destroy your rear wheel. I'm sure there are other methods of installing a hub adapter properly but this is what I did:

1. Sanded/filed down the surfaces where the two halves of the hub adapter touch each other. This way the two halves of the hub adapter clamp down on the hub instead of clamping down on the other half of the adapter.
2. Used brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the hub and adapter halves before installation.
3. I applied a metal retaining and gap filling compound (Loctite 660) to the adapter surfaces before installation. The retaining compound is meant to be used on cylindrical shafts to prevent rotational slippage. I allowed 24 hours to cure. If you do decide to use a retaining compound remember that it is almost permanent! The only way to remove the adapter will be to heat it up with a blowtorch.
4. I used blue Loctite threadlocker on all screws before installation.
5. When tightening the screws, I used a 1/4 inch metal pipe to apply far more torque to the screws (especially the screws that clamp the adapter halves together) than would be possible if I had just used my hand. I put the ends of the Allen keys in the pipe (which was a few feet long) and tightened them as much as I possibly could. You will not strip the screws out!

After doing this, my hub adapter has not slipped one millimeter. It is fixed in place. I have a very powerful engine (5 HP) which might have contributed to the old adapter slipping. Regardless, now I can ride confidently knowing that my rear wheel is safe.
You went through a lot of bulls**t you should of bought mag rims factory ready your in the $100 price bracket and the rims look kool too.
 
I did buy some mag on amazon but haven’t install them yet. They got the 6 holes for a engine sprocket they were 150.00 dollars.Well I was wondering if I would need the sprocket adaptor if anybody knows because the 6 holes spot is really offset outwards.
 

Attachments

  • 7EEEE4F8-3E8B-45BC-A548-2806FCE8F995.jpeg
    7EEEE4F8-3E8B-45BC-A548-2806FCE8F995.jpeg
    147.5 KB · Views: 206
  • 3AFB76AA-BCE5-4A8B-876B-15107181FED9.jpeg
    3AFB76AA-BCE5-4A8B-876B-15107181FED9.jpeg
    179.6 KB · Views: 228
Last edited:
On this site it seems like i read about hub adapter problems way more than rag joint problems. My rag joints been holding solid. They just need to be centered and really really tight. It's even on its second rear rim cause i switched out the single speed for a seven speed wheel.
 
Notice OP has a 5hp motor, that's a lot of torque for a wheel designed for human power alone. The healthiest man alive maxes out at just 1/3rd hp, think about it.
 
Step 1 is the absolute most important!

Also worth noting to NOT use shims, EVER. More surfaces are more chances to slip. Get the proper size, mic your hub, and then sand the adapter surfaces to fit...you'd be surprised at how much variance there is with hub diameters! Some need quite a bit of sanding, other are nice and firm out of the box.
You went through a lot of bullsh*t you should of bought mag rims factory ready your in the $100 price bracket and the rims look kool too.
90% of bicycle mags are brittle garbage that will break the first time they hit a pothole above 20mph. Just not made for being motorized. I would MUCH rather have a hub adapter and spokes than a bicycle mag. Moped mags on the other hand are great, but you lose quite a bit of top speed from the reduced diameter(most are 21-23" OD depending on the moped) and they are heavier than a 12ga spokes wheel that is more than enough for most builds.
 
Back
Top