How many mods have you done to your Whizzer?

[Quenton Guenther]

Hey guys,

Best to PM or email for details as I don't want anyone to think I am promoting products on this site.

I have everything!, camshafts [8 different grinds], mushroom lifters [chromeoly, hard steel], heads [7 different versions], custom copper head gaskets, racing pistons, floating wrist pins, HD head bolts, thick head bolt washers, intake spacers, exhaust spacers, tuned exhaust pipes, tuned muffler inserts, progressive springs, crankcase vent systems, etc.
Not trying to make a sales pitch, just need room and done with most of the speed parts. As an example I have pistons in eight O.S. configurations. 57 MM, 57.25 MM, 57.5 MM, 57.75 MM, 58 MM, 58.25 MM, 58.50 MM, 58.75 MM, and 59 MM. Even have pistons for the vintage motors, starting at 2.230", 2.235", 2.245", 2.255", 2.265", 2.275", 2.285", 2.295", 60 MM [racing], and 62 MM [racing].

The total sum of the parts equals a motor with 3 times the original HP and can rev at least 2,000 RPMs over stock.

The majority of the collection are one-off parts and will never be produced because of cost.

Have fun,

 

[k-wad]

It's alive!!
After it's long hibernation, my old NE-5 is up and moving under it's own power again.

I replaced the lifters with a set of the newer factory mushrooms. Per Quenton's directions, I cut down the bases for crankcase clearance, trued up the bottoms, and drilled out the centers to lighten them. I also used some "Cherry Red" to case hardened the heads for longer life.
I was having a problem with the float bowl boiling dry, so I added one of the aluminum intake spacers. I taper ported it to match both the cylinder and carb, but, left it at it's original length.

I also discovered the cause of my sticking throttle, the factory plastic intake spacer had cracked and I overtightened the carb. This caused not only the carb mounting flange to bend, but, also the body of the carb itself!
I ended up replacing the factory 22mm carb with another Keihin clone, but, swapped out the jets and needle from the factory Whizzer unit.

Another problem I had was the engine side cover. The recess that held the right side cam bearing was seriously chewed up and egg-shaped. My crankcase was filled with aluminum sparklies! The cam bearing is fine (no play, spins free) so, the only thing I can think of what would cause it would be the original, undersized lifter bases dancing down the cam lobe, and jack-hammering the the bearing holder until it was out of round enough to let the bearing race spin.
Good old Whizzer-Paul hooked me up with his last Whizzer embossed side cover and after a lot of internal cleaning, it's good to go.

Made myself an oil-air separator out of some 3/4" heater hose, an elbow and a PCV valve. It works great! No more oil spray, but, I did have to get used to the noise of the valve (Pfffft-click! Pfffft-click!)

Also did a few other minor things like replacing the spark plug with an NGK Iridium unit and swapped out the old plug wire with an old style cloth covered wire and brass terminal.

After the new upgrades, the bike runs great! It has a little more low end grunt than it did before and has way less valve noise, which I'm guessing is the result of the new lifters.

But, the most important upgrade of all was the "Zombie Outbreak Response Team" medallion on the belt cover. That alone gave me probably another 10 horsepower!



Next up on the list is replacing the rear coaster brake with a disc. That should be fun......

 

[KCvale]

Wow, old topic revived.

I don't know if this counts but does have a Wizzer gas tank on it.

79cc Pred on a Macargi Fatal Love.

 

[PunkassGearhead88]

It's alive!!
After it's long hibernation, my old NE-5 is up and moving under it's own power again.

I replaced the lifters with a set of the newer factory mushrooms. Per Quenton's directions, I cut down the bases for crankcase clearance, trued up the bottoms, and drilled out the centers to lighten them. I also used some "Cherry Red" to case hardened the heads for longer life.
I was having a problem with the float bowl boiling dry, so I added one of the aluminum intake spacers. I taper ported it to match both the cylinder and carb, but, left it at it's original length.

I also discovered the cause of my sticking throttle, the factory plastic intake spacer had cracked and I overtightened the carb. This caused not only the carb mounting flange to bend, but, also the body of the carb itself!
I ended up replacing the factory 22mm carb with another Keihin clone, but, swapped out the jets and needle from the factory Whizzer unit.

Another problem I had was the engine side cover. The recess that held the right side cam bearing was seriously chewed up and egg-shaped. My crankcase was filled with aluminum sparklies! The cam bearing is fine (no play, spins free) so, the only thing I can think of what would cause it would be the original, undersized lifter bases dancing down the cam lobe, and jack-hammering the the bearing holder until it was out of round enough to let the bearing race spin.
Good old Whizzer-Paul hooked me up with his last Whizzer embossed side cover and after a lot of internal cleaning, it's good to go.

Made myself an oil-air separator out of some 3/4" heater hose, an elbow and a PCV valve. It works great! No more oil spray, but, I did have to get used to the noise of the valve (Pfffft-click! Pfffft-click!)

Also did a few other minor things like replacing the spark plug with an NGK Iridium unit and swapped out the old plug wire with an old style cloth covered wire and brass terminal.

After the new upgrades, the bike runs great! It has a little more low end grunt than it did before and has way less valve noise, which I'm guessing is the result of the new lifters.

But, the most important upgrade of all was the "Zombie Outbreak Response Team" medallion on the belt cover. That alone gave me probably another 10 horsepower!

Next up on the list is replacing the rear coaster brake with a disc. That should be fun......

Nice progress.

Looks like I'm going to have to try to make a homemade breather system as well.

The "big breather" can't handle the added crankcase pressure the engine puts out when I'm cruising at 45 MPH for long periods of time. I sealed the small factory opening as Quenton recommended,and added a nipple to the "valve cover" and ran the breather hose from there, but, the oil always finds a way to escape somehow. I've been battling this annoying problem since I've owned the bike.. It's really getting old.



So since I'm ditching the big breather, I thought I'd take the opportunity to get my seat about low as yours, it actually flows with the lines of the bike now and doesn't look as hideous.

I also noticed my original front tire from '98 was starting to separate on the sidewall (I don't think the speeds I'm taking it up to are helping). So rather than chancing it, I went ahead a replaced both my tires with the Bell "kevlar" tires and the Hutchinson "20% thicker" tubes from Wal-Marx, yes, the good ole, bittersweet, Wally World. You can safely inflate these tires up to 65 PSI for better rolling resistance and less sidewall flex. I took the bike on a 25 mile ride and I could definitely notice a difference and I feel a lot safer at 50 MPH.

I didn't get to take any comparison pics, but both the newer tubes and tires definitely feel and look thicker than my old ones.






The bad news is, the go even faster parts have to be put on hold for now until I work out these other issues..

Here it is with the new seat placement and "kevlar" tires (excuse the messy garage and dirty Whizzer)

 

[k-wad]

PAGH,

I made my own version of Quenton's oil breather and it works flawlessly.
Here's the part list that was put up by Q-Man himself....Q's crankcase breather
My bike hasn't lost a drop of oil since I installed this little gem.
Well worth a trip to the auto parts store and the few dollars it cost to assemble.



I'm still making small improvements/mods to my bike as I go.
Over the weekend, I replaced a bunch of the soft factory bolts with black oil finished grade 12.9 button head allen bolts (no more mangled phillips head screws!).
Including shorter exhaust manifold bolts so that I can ditch the heat shield (it looks better and I no longer scorch my leg on the longer bolt heads).

I also replaced the factory head and tail light bulbs with brighter replacements.
(Here's a good source of inexpensive, brighter bulbs for the factory Whizzer headlight CLICK HERE )

And, I scored a cool pair of groovy black metal flake "Jackhammer" grips....

Super comfy and cool as hell looking!

 

[PunkassGearhead88]

PAGH,

I made my own version of Quenton's oil breather and it works flawlessly.
Here's the part list that was put up by Q-Man himself....Q's crankcase breather
My bike hasn't lost a drop of oil since I installed this little gem.
Well worth a trip to the auto parts store and the few dollars it cost to assemble.



I'm still making small improvements/mods to my bike as I go.
Over the weekend, I replaced a bunch of the soft factory bolts with black oil finished grade 12.9 button head allen bolts (no more mangled phillips head screws!).
Including shorter exhaust manifold bolts so that I can ditch the heat shield (it looks better and I no longer scorch my leg on the longer bolt heads).

I also replaced the factory head and tail light bulbs with brighter replacements.
(Here's a good source of inexpensive, brighter bulbs for the factory Whizzer headlight CLICK HERE )

And, I scored a cool pair of groovy black metal flake "Jackhammer" grips....
View attachment 53099
Super comfy and cool as hell looking!

Thanks for the link to the breather parts list... I actually never came across that link. I dig those metal flake grips, gives it that '60's look.

 

[chainmaker]

Hey guys,

Best to PM or email for details as I don't want anyone to think I am promoting products on this site.

I have everything!, camshafts [8 different grinds], mushroom lifters [chromeoly, hard steel], heads [7 different versions], custom copper head gaskets, racing pistons, floating wrist pins, HD head bolts, thick head bolt washers, intake spacers, exhaust spacers, tuned exhaust pipes, tuned muffler inserts, progressive springs, crankcase vent systems, etc.
Not trying to make a sales pitch, just need room and done with most of the speed parts. As an example I have pistons in eight O.S. configurations. 57 MM, 57.25 MM, 57.5 MM, 57.75 MM, 58 MM, 58.25 MM, 58.50 MM, 58.75 MM, and 59 MM. Even have pistons for the vintage motors, starting at 2.230", 2.235", 2.245", 2.255", 2.265", 2.275", 2.285", 2.295", 60 MM [racing], and 62 MM [racing].

The total sum of the parts equals a motor with 3 times the original HP and can rev at least 2,000 RPMs over stock.

The majority of the collection are one-off parts and will never be produced because of cost.

Have fun,

You have a motor I bought coming your way , I'll take some of the go fast stuff for it, I sent you a PM