DIY Friction Drive : Lowracer Style

[lowracer]

agcat,
The belt doesn't slip even under high power (stage 2 Cag engine).
There is alot of surface area around the 26" rim that the belt is in contact with.
Just use a cogged v-belt (AX) since the point it could slip is around the small engine pulley, but the AX belt wraps around better by being notched.
I tried a non nothed A belt & it slipped on the small engine pulley.
-lowracer-

 

[Rockoteer]

Great thread. I am anxious to get going on mine. Just trying to figure out mounting the chain saw on the bike. I don't want to take to much off the saw because of the cooling issue. Did that once and burned up the motor.
Thanks again.
Rockoteer

 

[rawly old]

Update on the 24" rim belt drive: yes it works well except that
it over stresses the clutch causing it to wear faster. Geared down
& then a smaller sheave appears to be the way to extend clutch life.
( i.e. something like the arrangement on a Whizzer)

 

[IbedaYank]

most wear on a clutch happens from a dead stop till the bike is moving fast enough for the motor
to reach it's 100% lockup rpm... Case in point riders of a Qmatic the ride mostly under 30mph end up burning out the clutch

 

[rawly old]

I agree fully, which is why I pedal off until I reach engagement
speed. The problem was that the large sheave had too leverage
against the clutch drum. All that torque from the Tanaka just
shreds a clutch with that much drag on it. And, if fact, at one
point it stripped the threads right out of the drum. I'm hoping to
have better luck with a smaller sheave, but for now I'm stuck with
friction.