I actually use a one step colder plug for summer...BR8HS...Its perfect for the desert heat conditions on my Phantom 85.
Trying to diagnose a flickering headlight
- Thread starter francisjohn
- Start date
Let me know if it does work and if that might have been the problem all along, this will help others down the road...lol.
francisjohn
Active Member
I normally used a BR6HS as I found them to do better for cold starts than a BP6HS. To be honest, I never had an issue with the stock Z4C plug, I once ran it for a few weeks out of boredom and experimenting and if I had to wear a blindfold, I wouldn't of been able to tell the difference between the BR6HS and Z4C, of course though, the Z4C is not as high quality. I'm sure there are subtle things happening that I just didn't notice.
So, I did two things. I wrapped my spark plug wire in heat shrink wrap and I swapped the plug out with a BR6HS. The light does not flicker. I believe the combination of these two play a role. My buddy who is an electrician told me to wrap the spark plug wire in heat shrink which will help prevent it from jumping. The resistor plug is also doing what it was meant to do.
I am happy that it did not flicker, too early too tell, but I will update in a week to let you know the long term. As of right now the conclusion appears to be that heatshrinking the spark plug wire and using a resistor plug helped.
I used red heat shrink wrap. I now have a performance spark plug wire. The red makes it go faster.
We ALL know that anything red on a bike makes it go faster...lol...lol.
Look at all the red on mine...lol...Even my gas line is red...lol.
francisjohn
Active Member
The performance CDI increases performance because of the red wire. It's the red aftermarket part phenomenon.
@DAMIEN1307 how did you get rear disc brakes on a bike that doesn't have the mount? What adapter did you use for it? (I'm assuming the BBR one)
I did some more riding yesterday and the light is doing well. I am glad you brought up the resistor plug because I asked someone that and they said it would make it worse (don't know how) I ordered a BR7HS which will go on Wednesday when the nice amazon delivery man brings it
I made my own rear adapter from 7075 T-6 Aluminum I got from a buddy that is some sort of honcho over at White Sands Missle Proving Grounds that also work on the Drone program for the USAF...For my front adapter, I just used an "Adel" clamp from an F-16...They both work fantastic...lol.
I also made my front motor mount from some 7075 T-6 aluminum as well...Nice and sturdy, rock solid, never moves on me...lol.
I'm happy the resistor plug Idea was the problem solver for your headlight blinking problem...lol.
Just in case your considering this:
Some people have bought these and then adapted accordingly to custom fit their frames so they are solidly in place so they do not slip out of place.
www.bikeberry.com
This link to Amazon.com could be used for your front motor mount if you ever find a need for one that would work similar to mine.
And this is how I was able to adapt my bike to be able to use rear disk brakes with my mag wheels on my steel frame Hyper Beach Cruiser bike.
I don't recommend this method on an aluminum frame because it would probably crack and break, but this is what i did on my Steel Frame Hyper Beach Cruiser to accomodate the rear sprocket and disk to fit within the dropouts and frame.
On my bike, (steel frame ONLY), i had to "stretch" the rear forks apart by hand, about 1/2 an inch to put the rear wheel with sprocket/rotor attached, and then use a spare 15MM axle nut on the sprocket/rotor inside of the drop down, threaded to the axle with blue locktite, to maintain that amount of "stretch" to accommodate the amount of of clearance space the rotor needs so as not to be pressed against the frame.
It helps to have a buddy with a strong pair of hands to help in this proceedure like I did...lol.
Some people have bought these and then adapted accordingly to custom fit their frames so they are solidly in place so they do not slip out of place.
BBR Tuning Billet Aluminum Disc Brake Caliper Bracket
This works with motorized or standard bicycles and allows you to install a disk brake if you don't have the necessary mounts. No more rim or coaster brakes.
www.bikeberry.com
This link to Amazon.com could be used for your front motor mount if you ever find a need for one that would work similar to mine.
And this is how I was able to adapt my bike to be able to use rear disk brakes with my mag wheels on my steel frame Hyper Beach Cruiser bike.
I don't recommend this method on an aluminum frame because it would probably crack and break, but this is what i did on my Steel Frame Hyper Beach Cruiser to accomodate the rear sprocket and disk to fit within the dropouts and frame.
On my bike, (steel frame ONLY), i had to "stretch" the rear forks apart by hand, about 1/2 an inch to put the rear wheel with sprocket/rotor attached, and then use a spare 15MM axle nut on the sprocket/rotor inside of the drop down, threaded to the axle with blue locktite, to maintain that amount of "stretch" to accommodate the amount of of clearance space the rotor needs so as not to be pressed against the frame.
It helps to have a buddy with a strong pair of hands to help in this proceedure like I did...lol.
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
francisjohn
Active Member
Wow, the mount came out really nice. I'm a bit in awe and confused regarding your front mount for the disc brake. It looks to me that you mounted the adel clamp through the top of the caliper, but I see at the bottom no hardware? I'm unsure if the screw is in the other side? Did you use the adel clamp on the top mounting point and then mount the bottom of it into the fork where a fender would normally be?
Also, the headlight works great, however I'm going to eliminate the heat shrink spark plug wire to see will it be the resistor plug that is the solution, or the heat shrink wrap. I eliminated my tachometer in the process of the diagnosis but I would like to have it back. It's pretty fascinating, the tach can't even get a reading over the heat shrink, I peeled back 1" of the heat shrink to coil up the tach wire and the rest of the wire that is heat shrunk is interfering with the tach wire. I figured as long as the coiled section of the tach wire wasn't over the heat shrink it would be fine, it appears I would need to peel it back entirely.
If ya look closely at the pic below, you will see that the normal black adapter is secured to the "Adel" clamp where the nut and bold hold the clamp together...The bottom is actually held by the fork on that adapter that is made to slide into and rest on the axle itself and of course, it is the axle nut holding all that together...It hasn't budged in about three years now...lol.
Ps...You will also notice there is a black magic marker line drawn on the axle and axel nut so I can readily see if it has backed off at all...I also use blue locktite on everything...lol.
I think that the resistor plug is all it should need...I am running a wireless speedometer computer on mine and when I first put it on, it was telling me I was doing 99 MPH...lol...I quickly reasoned it out as RF interference coming from my non-resistor spark plug and simply replaced it with a resistor spark plug...lol...End of problem...lol.
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