When I first put the "mini-gen" on, I had to trim a bit so as not to touch the mag rotor. I took it for a test ride and noticed a small loss of power.
There was nothing connected to the wire from the gen. I just try on and fit new parts as I go. Then if I'm not ready with the rest of the add on, I take it back off to use later.
I didn't think about the coil to much until you mentioned possibly canceling the ignition coil, it makes some sense being that the North magnetic field is cutting the ign. coil, while the South magnetic field is cutting the charge coil. Depending on the direction of the winding (cw or ccw) of the charge coil, and being an AC out put of both coils could create a magnetic brake. robbing some very needed HP (maybe?). Also if the out put electrical polarity were backassward of the two coils it might not run at all. (Don't think they would build something like that).
I know with my GT5 Racing, if I just THINK about using the white wire for anything, it would sputter and stall .
The GT5 comes stock with a two wire mag. I had a three wire replacement, now back to two wire mag. I got with the new
non-magnetic rotor.
I don't know enough about how the timing works in conjunction with the magnetic field(s) cutting the magneto coil, I understand the theory of creating electricity with magnets and coils, Just not the precision aspect (timing wise).
I tried several different lights with the coil that worked well, two powered by the USB power regulator which will also power any three cell flashlight, and one with a motorcycle 32w led h4 bulb in a headlight shell that Baconator 101 mentioned in his thread, a Harbor Freight special. These are pics of the latter.
Just finished the final testing and adjusting of components and made some measurements and surprise the lighting coil in use actually increased the spark plug voltage from 28thousand volts to 50thousand volts, didn't see that coming. The lighting coil produces AC voltage in the 35 v0lt max range so all components must be rated 35v or greater, it must be rectified to effectively run LEDs a full bridge rectifier is used, it must be isolated from all other circuits because there is some weird interactions with the ignition coil and circuit so the fine coil wire to ground on the lighting coil MUST BE REMOVED FROM GROUND AND SOLDERED TO A INSULATED WIRE THAT WILL GO TO THE RECTIFIER ac input along with the other wire from the lighting coil. I use a 35v 100 uF capacitor on the dc output of the rectifier which helps filter the dc output. From this point you can go two ways, to a USB power regulator to power USB run lights and a battery pack or directly to a motorcycle LED h4 type bulb of low wattage.
This is one mod on the Tail,brake & turn assembly.