Not ridden in a week, now won't start

[KB_UK]

The thing about cold nights is it's been indoors the whole week and it never gets that cold in here. There's no hole in the mag housing, and I opened that up an hour ago to make sure the wires hadn't come off or something. It's bone dry in there though. Nevertheless I'm still going to test all the electrics tomorrow when I'm more awake.

Worse news is since I decided to move the petrol tank, I took it off and noticed it's oily around the studs, so must have slow leaks. Since I'm throwing this on the back of the bike now anyway what's a good alternative fuel tank? I was thinking like a gokart one or something but they're very expensive. I might just JB weld the leaks on the one I have.

 

[gary55]

I've seen a lot of people try the jb weld on tank studs. Never seen it last long.

 

[zippinaround]

I put plastic spacers between tank and bracket (the ones that hold the drum in a new washing machine) seems to be doing good after 2000 miles , back to your problem if your using the plug that came with the kit make sure to check the gap , I have had a few stock plugs that just failed after just a few miles tho best to swap for a good plug since so cheap also might be a good idea to get copper core plug wire and a good cap , the stock stuff is usually lowest of low quality

 

[KB_UK]

Just tested the Magneto. Lots of voltage off of it, no problem there. Going to be the CDI again I just know it.

Also what is the correct spark plug gap? I see a lot of "check the gap" but nobody actually says what it should be set to, even in the stickied engine trouble thread.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Just tested the Magneto. Lots of voltage off of it, no problem there. Going to be the CDI again I just know it.

Also what is the correct spark plug gap? I see a lot of "check the gap" but nobody actually says what it should be set to, even in the stickied engine trouble thread.

The search function is your friend. I posted this reply to the same question in August:

"The search function is your friend.
I just read that 0.025" is a good place to start, then try 0.028, 0.030, 0.032, etc. All I did was type "spark plug gapped" into the search box (gap is too short a word)."

I think everyone has to find their own by trial and error because the optimum gap varies from engine to engine depending on umm.. stuff.. the spark strength, cranking pressure, fuel mix, or whatever.

 

[KB_UK]

Been playing with the CDI, found a fault in the ht lead, replaced it with the one from the old CDI that came with the kit. Hopefully this is my problem. Won't know until the new fuel line gets here.

To be honest I wouldn't be surprised it that was all it was. I bet the crappy lead had a loose connection the whole time, and that when it passed the spark test it was because I was holding it in juuuust the right place. Like a worn out set of headphones.

Funny how all my problems are turning out to be electrical.

 

[zippinaround]

Been playing with the CDI, found a fault in the ht lead, replaced it with the one from the old CDI that came with the kit. Hopefully this is my problem. Won't know until the new fuel line gets here.

To be honest I wouldn't be surprised it that was all it was. I bet the crappy lead had a loose connection the whole time, and that when it passed the spark test it was because I was holding it in juuuust the right place. Like a worn out set of headphones.

Funny how all my problems are turning out to be electrical.

First things I changed on my own bike was the spark plug , plug lead and plug cap think was 5€ total well worth it

 

[KB_UK]

ahaha it gets better, it wasn't the plug lead. The screw the plug lead attaches to is loose, and only conducts if you hold the plug lead in a certain way.

CDI seller has refunded, I have a replacement on the way now. I hope the 3rd CDI lasts.