nice 36cc motorized mountain bike for sale

this is a nice 36cc motorized mountain bike . its a differant design than you are used to seeing , i designed this system myself it uses a one piece aluminum motor mount that drives the front sprocket of the bike alowing you to shift gears in the back , ive built a number of these bikes and they are very dependable , no clutch all automatic shifting , easy stopping and going , this would be a great lady's bike , i used a brand new 36cc scooter motor with electric start . E start is not hooked up yet, still making sure i have the wiring correct for the brand new 12 volt 7.5 amp battery . thiis motorized mountain bike has nice rubber twist grip throttle kill switch , click shifters and button for electric start . here is a link to the pictures of this bike , if you click the pictures in the link it will take you to my photo bucket and you will see alote of the bikes ive made pluss some detail pictures on assembling my kit .



or you can co to www.thescooterguy.org to see them . motorized mountain bike complete $300.00 or $350.00 with electrick start hooked up .
 
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Click to expand...
Great!! I was hoping you would say that. If the cranks that come with the it are to long, you could put shorter ones on. The goal is just to make it "pedal assist", making it legal in all states.

Post pictures and or youtube when complete........
 
i m having problems finding that item , but still looking , that would be a great option to offer california would like it , it most states its just a 49cc scooter , with 26inch wheels,
 
Ca Law again?

Hello, hey, strotter, CA law does NOT allow manual shifting OF ANY KIND in the moped, motorized bicycle class. The ONLY shifting that is allowed is
"fully automatic, no more than 2-speed, incapable of being manually shifted".

Hey shifting is fun, and practical, but ILLEGAL. The word in CA law is, if you want to shift, the minimum class is "Motor-Driven Cycle" with the expensive plates, and insurance.

Please stay within the basic guidelines so as not to screw it up for everyone else.

TIA

Mike
 
ya cali is fussy , shifting is nice , you could disable derailleur at your most versatile gear or even better yet , get one of those derailleurs that shifts automatically . but that's a bit much , might have to settle for a china kit . or change the law . just call your congressman and tell him . hay we are trying to do our part , let us shift gears and save even more gas . Arnold S. is a reasonable person I'm sure he would see things our way .
 
the advantages of shifting gears are numerous . 1. shifting gears allows you to use smaller cc motors so you get better gas mileage , quieter motorized bikes and less wear and tear on your motor , there are more but i wont go into it ,
 
I like the innovation and thinking that goes into alternative drive designs.

A couple of things that come to mind and one already covered here is 'Where are the pedals'? IMO, that's gonna be an issue. Remove the pedals and, say what you will, but you no longer have a motorized bicycle. Perhaps that's simply a matter of definition but the language of state legislatures is all about definition.

The other thing I see and I really dont care for is drilling frames as many times as I see here.
Seems to me you'll be limited to steel/cromoly frames....at best. I would not recommend drilling aluminum frames like that. Let me ask, have you considered a mounting that would clamp rather than drilling?
 
drilling isnt so bad

At first i was concerned with drilling , and it was harder once i stepped up to nicer more expensive bikes . like cannondales , treks , but ever since I've been selling my SCOOTERBIKES I've have told my customers that i would fix or repair there bike for as long as they owned it, I did this because i wanted to make a good design that was maintenance free , reliable. at first this was hard i used a different mount that clamped , it just wasn't reliable shifting caused derailing and things cascaded down from there, eventually things evolved into what you see now , and i almost never see a scooterbike come back except for routine maintenance. and i have never had a problem with drilling . I've never had a frame bend , or break , i think if you drill the hole the correct size then fill it with the correct size bolt , use washers and lock washer then apply pressure , you will keep the structural integrity of the frame . here are a few pics of what i am talking about , i think the pictures are links to my photo bucket web page where you can see many pictures or you can go to www.thescooterguy.org from there you can look at photo gallery , or assembly pictures , thanks for your interest , as for pedals , it can be done with a free wheeling front sprocket schwinn made them for some of there older bikes , then you have to positition the motor further up on the frame , or maybe modify pedals slightly .
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr161/thescooterguy/bikekit007.jpg
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr161/thescooterguy/Picture.jpg
 
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Well let me be clear that I think you are to be applauded for innovation in mounting design. Personnaly I'm not fond of the china girl engines and so to see alternative frame mounts using flat head engines is a welcome sign.

I care not to argue over drilling frames. If you are satisfied with the results and back up your builds and your customers are happy, good enough. For me it's a no go, particularly as exhibited by the inherent deflection incurred as an example from one of your own pics: http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr161/thescooterguy/bikekit007.jpg

I've been recently immersed in some ideas with a frame builder over materials and designs, for both bikes and trailers in steel, cromoly, and various program aluminum. We've examined many examples of well used mtn bikes from top line makers suffering frame stress and damage brought to him for possible remedy.

I'm more inclined to favor braze-ons, though the subsequent heat treating for aluminum can be ungainly. For this reason my builder friend favors steel.

We can agree to disagree but I would say a serviceable clamping system would serve your design well and not be too difficult. Even at that, in these forum pages there are many posts showing examples of downtubes being severed with the supplied motor mounts that accomapany the HT engines with no drilling whatsoever. One nice advantage with the flat head engines is less vibration than the often unbalaced HT engines.

Best of luck, though. Forgive my missive here....I realize this is the B/S/T board and you posted not in the general discussion area.
 
no thank you

I have tried many different foot peg designs , and i must say that this is my most dependable and safest foot peg tempered steel bolt , then nut washer all the way up . i tried clamps , yuk .!!!! its better than anything else , water is no issue they grip well . and still to date not one problem with that design not on one bike , Ive even done it to a road bike with very thin tubes , yes i did clamp that foot peg down tight , which is not necessary when using lock washers , of course i always fit the bike to the customer. here is another option for foot pegs , i still had to use a screw to keep them from turning but kirnin is close to 300lbs and he is still riding.http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr161/thescooterguy/kirnan.jpg
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr161/thescooterguy/footpeg.jpg
 

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