ranger-ron
New Member
Mikkojay, Here is a picture of the first pulley I tried. At 3 3/8" dia, it was too big so I dropped down to a 2 3/4" pulley. Notice the 6 reliefs milled into the flywheel side of the pulley. They are for clearance for the rivets that attach the flywheel hub to the flywheel (see picture) They allow the pulley to fit snugly against the hub which helps the pulley to run true plus they keep the pulley from slipping on the hub. I couldn't believe the original set up didn't have the milled reliefs in the back of the starter drive causing it rest against the head of the rivets, not the hub. No wonder the whole set up wobbled. I made a .625" OD X 12MM ID bushing so the pulley fit properly on the 12mm X.25 X 90 MM long crankshaft bolt. There is also a new bushing behind the large starter timing belt pulley.
The other side of the pulley just has a flat machined surface which mates up to the flat back side of the started drive.
The jack-shaft that the clutch is on, was shorten to about 8 3/8" so the clutch lines up to the new crankshaft pulley (see picture). Hopefully by moving the clutch inward and having the 2 belts pulling against each other will help keep the shaft from snapping off. I also try not to over tighten the main drive belt.
The front belt is a L425 and, because of the new idler, the longer belt is now a AP71.
It's all working well.......so far!
The other side of the pulley just has a flat machined surface which mates up to the flat back side of the started drive.
The jack-shaft that the clutch is on, was shorten to about 8 3/8" so the clutch lines up to the new crankshaft pulley (see picture). Hopefully by moving the clutch inward and having the 2 belts pulling against each other will help keep the shaft from snapping off. I also try not to over tighten the main drive belt.
The front belt is a L425 and, because of the new idler, the longer belt is now a AP71.
It's all working well.......so far!
