Depends on what you define as "better"Is the belt drive better than a chain drive? I've been looking at it and would like to try it.
That is a good point. What motor? They make belt drives for the 2 strokes tooI'm going to make the assumption your vague question is about the 4-stroke chain-drive VS belt-drive reduction transmissions. If you get the best belt-drive (GruBee 4G) and compare it to the best chain-drive (Bike Barry duel chain) the 4G is far superior.
That's a no for me on the belt drive. Already had wheel bearings go bad. Don't want that again.Depends on what you define as "better"
Belt drives are lower maintenance and much quieter and smoother than chains.
Belt drives also require a lot of tension to function without slipping. Even if you somehow manage to get enough tension on it to not slip, there will be so much load on the wheel bearings that they will require more attention and likely fail much more quickly.
I was looking at belt drive but I don't want to run it with a big load on the wheel bearingsAre you looking at this one?
UAUS Belt Drive Driving Sprocket Assembly For 66cc 80cc 2 Stroke Motorized Bike Gas Motor Bicycle https://a.co/d/j6ZEUvn
Big IFs here. If you want to run it without all of the tension required, you will need to engage as much of both cogs as physically possible. That means running a static idler as well as an adjustable one that is capable of wrapping that belt around at least 270 degrees of full contact with the pulleys.I was looking at belt drive but I don't want to run it with a big load on the wheel bearings
Thanks for the info. I will stick with the chain driveBig IFs here. If you want to run it without all of the tension required, you will need to engage as much of both cogs as physically possible. That means running a static idler as well as an adjustable one that is capable of wrapping that belt around at least 270 degrees of full contact with the pulleys.
If you do that, it MIGHT not slip the teeth. It would still need a decent amount.of tension.
A belt drive.that wouldn't slip as easily with less tension needs to have bigger teeth. 5mm at least. Even then, they could probably still skip teeth without some measure of tension.
Belt drive bikes have crazy teeth on the cogs.( are they sheaves or sprockets on positive drive belts?Big IFs here. If you want to run it without all of the tension required, you will need to engage as much of both cogs as physically possible. That means running a static idler as well as an adjustable one that is capable of wrapping that belt around at least 270 degrees of full contact with the pulleys.
If you do that, it MIGHT not slip the teeth. It would still need a decent amount.of tension.
A belt drive.that wouldn't slip as easily with less tension needs to have bigger teeth. 5mm at least. Even then, they could probably still skip teeth without some measure of tension.