OK, this one may need to start from scratch.
Head studs and head bolts.
Engine expirience from cars.
Back when cars had caburtetors, in Australia, was the faithfull
"Red Motor".
These motors were often stripped and "done up".
The head bolts, go into the engine block and some go into the water jacket.
The recomnended sealant is called "Stag", it's brown/red in color and has a distinct odour about it.
One had to smear the threads with Stag, then tighten up the head.
When the car was initially started, it did not leave the workshop until the head was re-tensioned as soon as the water warmed up and ran for 20 minutes or so.
This was so everything had dried up, "settled" and during that warm up the timing and some carby adjustments were done so it's ready for the next run after the initial warm up.
After initial warm up of a HT, re-tension cos that lube/oil/kero-whatever would have dried up, caused some space, therefore a re-tension is warranted.
But,
if lets say an engine has been running for a month,by that time those head bolts have sealed firmly, "rusted" in, so if you try to undo them, they sound a "crack".
If one has this "crack" sound when they are tensioning the head, then you do risk breaking the bolts or stripping a thread.
Like I said before, loosen first, then re-tighten.
Warm it up, then check the tension again, but don't loosen the 2nd time.
To "visualize" what happens when you re-tighten a cylinder head in sequence, think of ironing a trouser leg, <<<>middle out->>>>>>|.
Same with a head, tension it outwards.