TerraPilot
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- Joined
- Sep 11, 2009
- Messages
- 38
Golden Eagle Bike Engines (GEBE) is generating quite a following. I just installed 2 of them. I really like GEBE.
If you can use a center punch to mark your drill holes in a piece of aluminum and a hacksaw to cut the 3/4" aluminum strip required here then you will love this extra tank. I went on and picked up that cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder from Harbor Freight but a hacksaw is quite adequate to make the cuts. That 3/4" by 1/8th inch thick aluminum strip comes in 3 or 4 foot lengths at any hardware store. That and a 2 inch piece of galvanized 3/8th or 1/2" sized pipe plus some bolts is about all you'll need to complete the task. The tank comes from Staton in Oklahoma:
http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3262
Its labeled as a 64 ounce tank but I could only get 50 oz. into it.
Please view the graphics and pictures attached then read below;
Make 2 of the 10-1/2" pieces from the strip and then cut the 3 spacing pieces from the remainder. I know.... there will be quite a bit left over. A drill press works best for accurate hole cutting and spacing. If you must use a hand drill make your center punch marks are good and deep and be mindful to prevent your drill bit from moving off or walking off point as you drill. A dull drill bit is a definate no no!!! If your holes end up too far off don't hesitate to make another more accurate piece. You have lots of scrap. Your bolt sizes are as follows;
one ----1/4" by 3-1/4" bolt (if you can't find a 3-1/4", a 3-1/2" will work. I had to cut mine from a 3-1/2". )
one ----1/4" by 1" bolt
one ----1/4" by 1-1/4" bolt
three---1/4" neoprene or nylon filled locknuts (an absolute must, no substitutes ).
Den at GEBE describes the one line configuration for any extra tanks.
I much prefer this single gas line configuration as apposed to other methods described elsewhere. It's simpler but yes it does require one to drill a 3/16" drill hole in the top of your existing tank. The black tube from your Staten tank fits this hole perfectly without any fittings. You dont have to push it more than 1/2 inch into your old existing tank. The clear tube in the in the Staton tank is useless. You should be able to finger the inside end of the clear tube out of the tank mouth long enough to plug both ends of this tube with 2- #10 size nylon screws (ok regular screw will work too). I then coiled the excess outside the tank and secured it with a baggy tie. For some reason I just could not bring myself to cut it. LOL
I've included a tank and flow graphic to simplify the eplanations for flow of the gas and which tank to seal.
I hope the graphics of the assemblage and photos save a lot of time too.
I like that this tank is completely out of the way right up next to the old tank resulting in the shortest and simplest fuel connections least strain on any pumping in the engine. As I understand the Sabaru Robins engines appreciate this.
22 ounces in the old tank plus the extra 50 oz come to about 100 mile range on my bike. I'm projecting 180 mile to the gal.
Go for it.
If you can use a center punch to mark your drill holes in a piece of aluminum and a hacksaw to cut the 3/4" aluminum strip required here then you will love this extra tank. I went on and picked up that cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder from Harbor Freight but a hacksaw is quite adequate to make the cuts. That 3/4" by 1/8th inch thick aluminum strip comes in 3 or 4 foot lengths at any hardware store. That and a 2 inch piece of galvanized 3/8th or 1/2" sized pipe plus some bolts is about all you'll need to complete the task. The tank comes from Staton in Oklahoma:
http://www.staton-inc.com/Details.asp?ProductID=3262
Its labeled as a 64 ounce tank but I could only get 50 oz. into it.
Please view the graphics and pictures attached then read below;
Make 2 of the 10-1/2" pieces from the strip and then cut the 3 spacing pieces from the remainder. I know.... there will be quite a bit left over. A drill press works best for accurate hole cutting and spacing. If you must use a hand drill make your center punch marks are good and deep and be mindful to prevent your drill bit from moving off or walking off point as you drill. A dull drill bit is a definate no no!!! If your holes end up too far off don't hesitate to make another more accurate piece. You have lots of scrap. Your bolt sizes are as follows;
one ----1/4" by 3-1/4" bolt (if you can't find a 3-1/4", a 3-1/2" will work. I had to cut mine from a 3-1/2". )
one ----1/4" by 1" bolt
one ----1/4" by 1-1/4" bolt
three---1/4" neoprene or nylon filled locknuts (an absolute must, no substitutes ).
Den at GEBE describes the one line configuration for any extra tanks.
I much prefer this single gas line configuration as apposed to other methods described elsewhere. It's simpler but yes it does require one to drill a 3/16" drill hole in the top of your existing tank. The black tube from your Staten tank fits this hole perfectly without any fittings. You dont have to push it more than 1/2 inch into your old existing tank. The clear tube in the in the Staton tank is useless. You should be able to finger the inside end of the clear tube out of the tank mouth long enough to plug both ends of this tube with 2- #10 size nylon screws (ok regular screw will work too). I then coiled the excess outside the tank and secured it with a baggy tie. For some reason I just could not bring myself to cut it. LOL
I've included a tank and flow graphic to simplify the eplanations for flow of the gas and which tank to seal.
I hope the graphics of the assemblage and photos save a lot of time too.
I like that this tank is completely out of the way right up next to the old tank resulting in the shortest and simplest fuel connections least strain on any pumping in the engine. As I understand the Sabaru Robins engines appreciate this.
22 ounces in the old tank plus the extra 50 oz come to about 100 mile range on my bike. I'm projecting 180 mile to the gal.
Go for it.