Tadpole by design

CatonCam

New Member
Local time
1:47 PM
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
16
Location
Colorado Rocky Mountains
After looking over tons of pictures and plans of trikes I put this one together.
It is, going to be ridden everyday, all year long. This is Colorado! The High Country, yes we get lots of snow here. The cables still need to be fitted and cut to length, and it needs some paint or at least some more primer! Photos of Paul on his Tad. Much More To Come.

also see here, http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=22412

Cat's, Dad and Cat too!

http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachm...ent.php?attachmentid=20399&stc=1&d=1250655625
 

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20" wheels for the front and a 26" in the rear. A "mid" drive was added, (just behind the seat) giving it some super granny gears along with the extra high gears for down hill fun. 3 sprockets on the crank, with 5 on the mid drive ending with 7 on the rear wheel.
Caliper brakes on all wheels. The frame is 1 ¼" square tube. King pins are recycled bicycle head tubes. The seat frame is ¾ EMT with a homemade mesh cover.

When told that the trike on the bench was for him, He let me know immediately that he wanted to motorize it! We talked some about what he thought he would like for an engine and what his expectations and needs were. I tried to talk him into going with the Harbor Freight style engine (for cost savings) but he was adamant about using a Honda. His experience as a maintenance person told him the Honda would probably perform best for him.

I wanted to keep it as simple and inexpensive to maintain as possible. Not only from an engineering point of view (and maintenance), but from an economical point of view also. This trike should give him stability on snow and ice that he could never get on his 2 wheel bike.

Paul provided the GXH50 Honda. I provided the Drive components. At the engine is a 1 ¾" pulley to a 6" pulley on the jackshaft, then it's a 10 tooth to a 60 tooth on the rear wheel which gives it around a 20 to 1 reduction. 2 quick pedals and he can dump the clutch and he's off.

Yerf Dog parts from ebay provided most of what was needed for the drive. Years of experience provided me with the design. After changing the output shaft to a shorter one, all that was needed was to install a tensioner. A cable controlled clutch seemed like the best fit for this build. An adjustment point for the cable was added along with the lever for the tensioner, simple and inexpensive! (under $100 bucks)

Paul already has plans to add a "radio flyer" wagon stake bed (no wheels), behind the seat, so it will act as a pickup truck. Asked about what color he is planning on, he says he is undecided as yet. More pictures as he progresses.

Cat's, Dad and Cat too!

http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20423&stc=1&d=1250690706
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That's a really nice build there. Curiosity is bugging me - what is the purpose of the raked central stem rising from the BB, since it is side steering?
 
Thanks for the compliments guys!

Simon, The trike was built from scrap bikes. The extra long seat post was left there because its a great place to hang a water bottle holder, speedo maybe, or to mount a light on.

I have a standing post on our local "Free Cycle" for scrap bikes headed for the landfill, I also check craigslist often for free bikes.

Cat's Dad and Cat too!
 
Man.... I dig this tad.

a few questions:

2 quick pedals and he can dump the clutch and he's off.
Does this mean he can bump start the engine?

Do you have any pics of the whole drive train, uncovered?

Where were y'all, when I was building my tad?? :giggle:
(hopefully this will inspire me to finish mine!!):D

Nice work!!
 
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Old style Belt drive

Sorry for the delay in responding, and thank you all for the comments!

Srdavo,

YES! It will bump start or use the rope starter. It's a Honda, it starts first pull every time.

The belt drive style I am using here is very similar to the old Mclane belt drive found on older reel type mowers and some edgers. I grew up in So. Cal and did quite a bit of lawn service in my younger days, so this style of drive I am very familiar with. It works!

Heres your inside picture,
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20644&stc=1&d=1251421231 the red circles are the cable attachment point and adjuster.
http://www.motoredbikes.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20645&stc=1&d=1251421240

Very simple setup, it uses a cable actuation on a lever with a tension roller on it, there is another contact point for the belt just above the top of the belt. This forces the belt to completely release from the drive pulley for a "neutral" position. I used the brake handle with the push pin in it so it could be left in "neutral" if you have to get off for a moment that way you can let it idle. Also, when you pull the clutch handle all the way back to the bar it will cause the belt to release on the output pulley also. NO engine drag at all if you have to pedal. The rear brake is also a push pin type of handle for using as a parking brake.

Cat's Dad and Cat too!
 

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