Whizzer coil & spark plug

Traveler · Mar 26, 2009

I have mostly taken an old H series Whizzer engine apart for inspection. The engine looks pretty good with little wear. I have a couple questions:

The spark plug wire is missing, but it looks like a regular auto spark plug wire could be used, because where the wire goes into the coil, it looks like it would just screw onto a threaded projection inside the spark plug wire hole in the coil.

Also, Is there a stock spark plugs and condensers that can be purchased off the shelf for the Whizzer?

Thanks for any help.

RdKryton · Mar 26, 2009

Yes there are parts to be had for old Whizzers. Many are reproductions but they are good quality. These people have many items.
http://www.memorylane-classics.com/

Jim

Quenton Guenther · Mar 26, 2009

Hi Traveler,

Early "H" motors use a wire that could be "unpluged", and later coils used a wire pushed and or twisted onto a pin inside the unit. I normally use Belden sparkplug wire when rebuilding the original magnetos. You can replace the points & condenser with an electronic module [can be purchased at some auto parts or lawn mower shops]. I have lots of points & condensers in stock if you need them.

Have fun,

Traveler · Mar 26, 2009

I have the type that is twisted on. Thanks. I'll check out your site.

Traveler · Mar 27, 2009

Quenton Guenther said:
Hi Traveler,

Early "H" motors use a wire that could be "unpluged", and later coils used a wire pushed and or twisted onto a pin inside the unit. I normally use Belden sparkplug wire when rebuilding the original magnetos. You can replace the points & condenser with an electronic module [can be purchased at some auto parts or lawn mower shops]. I have lots of points & condensers in stock if you need them.

Have fun,

My mistake. I typed E model and meant to type H model.

WZ507 · Mar 27, 2009

Whizzer Coil High Tension Lead Replacement

One thing to be careful of when replacing the coil high tension lead is that the "threaded post" in the "well" on the side of the coil is connected to the secondary coil winding via wire that is finer than a human hair. The "threaded post" is often a brass screw installed from the bottom side of the well and potted in tar (as are the internal coil windings). The connection of the coil's secondary winding to the threaded post is susceptible to breaking if you twist excessively when installing the new high tension lead and cause the screw to rotate. I mention this since once the connection to the secondary winding is severed, it can be very challenging if not impossible to restore. Twist the new high tension lead minimally and carefully so as to not break the connection.

If you warm the coil slightly and carefully remove the tar covering the screw head (dig the tar out with a small spatula), you can get a screwdriver on it and assure that you don't twist it when the high tension lead is installed. Some of the later Whizzer coils were potted in clear epoxy and on these the threaded stud is permanently mounted so there is no danger of breaking the connection to the coil's secondary winding. Good luck and let us know how you fare.

I believe points and condenser from a 60's vintage small block Chev will work in this application, but the electronic module is the easiest fix of all, since you throw all the moving parts away and screw on the module in their place.

Traveler · Apr 3, 2009

WZ507 said:
One thing to be careful of when replacing the coil high tension lead is that the "threaded post" in the "well" on the side of the coil is connected to the secondary coil winding via wire that is finer than a human hair. The "threaded post" is often a brass screw installed from the bottom side of the well and potted in tar (as are the internal coil windings). The connection of the coil's secondary winding to the threaded post is susceptible to breaking if you twist excessively when installing the new high tension lead and cause the screw to rotate. I mention this since once the connection to the secondary winding is severed, it can be very challenging if not impossible to restore. Twist the new high tension lead minimally and carefully so as to not break the connection.

If you warm the coil slightly and carefully remove the tar covering the screw head (dig the tar out with a small spatula), you can get a screwdriver on it and assure that you don't twist it when the high tension lead is installed. Some of the later Whizzer coils were potted in clear epoxy and on these the threaded stud is permanently mounted so there is no danger of breaking the connection to the coil's secondary winding. Good luck and let us know how you fare.

I believe points and condenser from a 60's vintage small block Chev will work in this application, but the electronic module is the easiest fix of all, since you throw all the moving parts away and screw on the module in their place.

Thanks for the advice about the coil. I'll remember to be careful. Any idea how the electronic module works on the Whizzer H engine?

Traveler · Apr 6, 2009

Quenton. Do you take PayPal? I saw your web site main menu and am interested in a condenser, spark plug, and spark plug wire, plus several other things.

Traveler · Apr 13, 2009

I am ready to re-install the coil on the H engine I am working on. It has an old condenser. There is a small bracket that is supposed to hold the condenser, but the condenser is not attached. Are the condensers normally welded to the bracket that attaches to the coil? I have a NOS condenser on order, but don't know if I still need a better bracket. Any advice is appreciated.

Quenton Guenther · Apr 13, 2009

Hi Traveler,

There is a tab attached to the case and the tab mounts to the small screw in the "E" bar. The hole is located in the center top portion of the "E" bar, the coil is mounted on the center part of the bar and the mounting hole is directly above it. If the tab is broken from the condenser [capacitor] it won't have a ground and will be useless. I sent you a condenser with a long wire attached, simply cut the wire length and solder on the tab on the coil. The same location has a wire [or should have] that fits through a hole in the case and is attached to the points. It is possible to connect the wiring several different ways, but when using the original coil it wouldn't hurt to keep the wires at a minimum. In fact the replacement aftermarket coil [expensive approx. $90.00]connects the condenser wire to the wire heading towards the points. I will show both in this post for reference. If you don't solder well [it is an art]I suggest you locate someone that is good to make sure all connections are first rate.

Have fun,

Whizzer coil & spark plug

Traveler

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Quenton Guenther

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WZ507

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