Two Easy Ones For Chris, Mike, and Quenton:

Hal the Elder

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HEY GUYS...

1. When I remove the side plate to do my "one-tooth" trick, will I need a new gasket when I close it back up?

2. Are the lifters removed and reinstalled through the side plate or through the valve adjustment plate?

(This is why I need a Service Manual!)

Thanks...
HAL
 
Servicing Whizzer cam and lifters

Hi Hal and all, I have not had a side-cover gasket break on an NE5 but have on a WC1 when servicing the cam. Maybe this is because the NE's were so much newer?

To change lifters.

Either lean the bike hard left (away from chain) or drain the oil (reccomended) do NOT lose the copper washer!!!

1) Remove 2 nuts on carb and slide off studs
2) remove 2 capscrews (8mm heads) on compression release cover
3) move cover aside, and hold lifter with 8mm open-end while loosening the jamb-nut with a 10mm open
4) remove the bolt (lifter top) from both lifters
5) unscrew the 10 side cover metric allens
6) gets a little tricky here, but the cover usually will stick, I have used a phillips head in the holes to wiggle the cover, and sometimes you can bring in a flatblade screwdriver from the other side tapping with mallet to pop it loose
7)pull cover carefully, cam may or may not stay in engine
8) as you remove cam, lifters will usually fall into the crankcase
9) insert ex lifter, and put washer, nut, and bolt in correct order thru the compression cover opening
9) do same with intake
10) turn engine till crank timing mark is level with the ground
11) slide cam into engine aligning the marks like this -_ (clever, eh???)
12) slide cover back on
13) install loosely all 10 bolts
14) torque to 165 inch lbs or so
15) adj exhaust to around .008-.009 intake to .007-.008 or so
16 compression cover re-install
17) check to be sure compression release is working
18) carb re-install
19) fill with 40wt oil
20) enjoy the ride

I hope this helps,

Mike

PS to the Mods, maybe it would be nice to glean all of this type of instruction, and make a single stickey of Whizzer Service Methods?

It would be ok to combine all OP's work into one thread I would think, and would be very usefull to the gang here?

Thanks, Mike
 
Looks Complicated, But It's Not!

Thanks, Mike

I'm man enough to tackle that!

HAL

PS...what's a "stickey"?
 
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Stickey definition

Hi Hal, a "stickey" is a post that always stays at the top so it can be easily found, there are thousands of posts here, and doing this keeps you from having to search out important ones.

Mike
 
Hi Hal,
Just a few quick extra notes of importance. Be very careful when advancing the camshaft, because I have seen many crankshaft gears marked "funny". Most often the crankshaft gear has 2 marks, one is a line, and the other is a dot. I have seen them with 2 dots, the line where the dot normally is and the dot where the line normally resides. Just make sure the crankpin [where the rod attaches to the crankshaft] is top, and most often it has a line on the gear pointing to the center of the pin. Normally the dot is about 8:00 on the gear, and is the dot used for the camshaft timing. Just be careful because like I stated I have seen the dots & dashes in the wrong place. Because I don't like "fishing" the lifters from the oil in the crankcase, I remove the side cover, & camshaft, then I lay a rag below the lifters to catch them before I loosen them.


Have fun,
 
Quenton is right, you have to be careful about making sure the marks are in the right place. When RdKryton (Jim) and I were changing my lifters for the new mushroom lifters, Jim advanced the timing by one tooth, or so he thought. It turned out that the line was the mark he was lining up with, as the dot was conveniently under his thumb. As a result, my timing was something like 180 degrees out of phase. I've got news for you, no Whizzer will start or run with the timing advanced that much (lol). I joked with him later, "If advancing it one tooth is good, then six must be great!" In reality it was more like eleven teeth. You can read about the saga of the mushroom lifters here: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=14977
 
Mr. Guenther:

You said you put a rag in the crankcase to catch the lifters after you "loosen" them. I'm not visualizing this!

I thought that when you remove the camshaft, the lifters will fall out, because they're RESTING on the cam! What is the "loosening" operation?

Here's how I visualize the valve train, from bottom to top:

Camshaft, then lifters, then clearance adjusters, then valve stem. Am I wrong in visualizing it this way?

Thanks...
HAL
 
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Hi Hal, Lifters won't drop into crancase until lifter adjustment bolt & nut are removed. Seems the lifter bores just won't allow the larger heads on the nuts & bolt to fit throught the 10 MM holes. Be very careful with the lifter cover gasket, because it is the fastest selling gasket [#2217], and almost always rips, when the cover is removed.

Have fun,
 
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Oh...i Get It!

The tops of the lifters are drilled and tapped for the clearance adjuster bolts, which will prevent the lifters from dropping out of their bores until they're disconnected.

Am I good now?

HAL
 
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