Almost every day someone contacts me about oil flowing from the motor at an alarming rate. Once Whizzer converted to the automatic clutch, and now the CVT drive the motor revs much higher than the original slip clutch. When the motor is reved higher the crankcase pressure increases and finds the path of least rersistance [the oil vent/breather hose]. After years of research and testing I arrived at a easy [cheap] fix. Of course my system was copied, but as usual a few changes were made to improve it [not]so that credit would be claimed by others. I will include a response I just sent to a new owner needing help, but will remove his name so that he doesn't get into trouble with warranty issues.
Hi XXXX, I will gladly help you get your new Whizzer "back on the road". I don't make the breather for sale, but will tell you how to make your own from parts purchased at your local hardware, auto parts, & discount store [dollar store]. The object it to separate the oil and the air. First the problem and what causes it. Once the oil is purging from the motor it can continue until the motor's crankcase is empty. The reason this takes place is because of bad design, and the company is in denial. I made them aware of this problem as early as 2004, but they insisted I was the only one with the problem. Although the crankcase pressure will drop after the motor is "broke-in", it never drops enough to use the stock breather system. The breather can be made from many different materials, but the most common is PVC pipe, pot scrubber material, and a PCV valve. The pipe needs to be at least 3 1/2" long [most make it 4" long], and 1" O.D., close one end of the pipe [glue on a cap], drill the closed end to allow a small length of 3/8" pipe to be attached [either threaded or glued]. Next fill the pipe with a wire mesh type material [pot scrubber without soap] that can be purchased at a local Dollar store [K-Mart, Walmart, etc], then affix a PCV valve in the top [can be purchased at any auto parts store], either using a rubber grommet, a cap glued or screwed on the pipe with a hole for the PCV valve. The PVC valve must be attached to the frame tube behind the motor, and the valve must be headed towards the top so that it is normally closed. I will attach several pictures to help. If the oil ever starts flowing again, a simple cleaning of the mesh material will stop it [so design it so the top can be removed easily]. Next run the hose from the tappet cover to the bottom of the new breather assembly, cut off excess and attach to the breather.
I have supplied this information to many and ALL report 100% success after making and installing this system.
If anyone needs more information or pictures, simply contact me at quincy163@yahoo.com.
Have fun,
Quenton
Hi XXXX, I will gladly help you get your new Whizzer "back on the road". I don't make the breather for sale, but will tell you how to make your own from parts purchased at your local hardware, auto parts, & discount store [dollar store]. The object it to separate the oil and the air. First the problem and what causes it. Once the oil is purging from the motor it can continue until the motor's crankcase is empty. The reason this takes place is because of bad design, and the company is in denial. I made them aware of this problem as early as 2004, but they insisted I was the only one with the problem. Although the crankcase pressure will drop after the motor is "broke-in", it never drops enough to use the stock breather system. The breather can be made from many different materials, but the most common is PVC pipe, pot scrubber material, and a PCV valve. The pipe needs to be at least 3 1/2" long [most make it 4" long], and 1" O.D., close one end of the pipe [glue on a cap], drill the closed end to allow a small length of 3/8" pipe to be attached [either threaded or glued]. Next fill the pipe with a wire mesh type material [pot scrubber without soap] that can be purchased at a local Dollar store [K-Mart, Walmart, etc], then affix a PCV valve in the top [can be purchased at any auto parts store], either using a rubber grommet, a cap glued or screwed on the pipe with a hole for the PCV valve. The PVC valve must be attached to the frame tube behind the motor, and the valve must be headed towards the top so that it is normally closed. I will attach several pictures to help. If the oil ever starts flowing again, a simple cleaning of the mesh material will stop it [so design it so the top can be removed easily]. Next run the hose from the tappet cover to the bottom of the new breather assembly, cut off excess and attach to the breather.
I have supplied this information to many and ALL report 100% success after making and installing this system.
If anyone needs more information or pictures, simply contact me at quincy163@yahoo.com.
Have fun,
Quenton