Dual Drive Hub

Wow... just got the hub from Staton-Inc. Unfortunately they sent the wrong hub!!! They shipped me out a 32H, when I'm needing a 36H, as the rim I already have for it is a 36H. Just my luck!!!

I called them within 5 minutes of receiving it, and the guy I talked to is going to see what can be done about getting free return shipping, and I'm hoping for overnight delivery to get this hub to me. I'm in a time crunch and Murphy had to step in with his dang law...

And after getting off the phone with the local bike shop I'm having lace this, they have a good double wall 32H they're going to give me. So it's working out! I'm back on schedule for mid next week!!!

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Wow, all the stuff I've gone through to get this done!

Can't complain with the results, but the road was a bumpy one.

So, I picked up my wheel and I install it - works like a charm. The next day, I call the shop up and say "Hey, I didn't pick up the old rim and spokes from the wheel you tore down to get the flipflop you were taking in on trade, sorry, I was super excited to finally get this wheel built." The guy says to me that he doesn't know if they have my old rim, and he was keeping the spokes (installed for a week, never ridden) as payment for the free labor! Within 2 minutes we're yelling at each other over the phone. He tells me he's going to look at the invoices from me and call the other guy who works there. My rim and spokes were sitting there in back for me... Picked them up an hour later.

Anyways - the wheel is done, I'm pleased with the results and here is some pics.

Just for functionalities sake, I just cracked open the flange, pulled out the springs and JB Welded the bearings. So now I have a threaded sprocket on a flange I can use on my pedal start! I still need to throw some red locktite on it, it has tried to back off a couple times on the compression start right after it was built, but for the fact it's a pedal start and I don't have any torque applied to the spokes on acceleration, I'm tickled pink.

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This one isn't a flip flop hub - a flip flop for anyone who doesn't know is right handed OR left handed threads on both sides of the hub. The purpose of it is for riders who do not want the ability to change gears on the fly. Dependant on the terrain, a rider on a flip flop hub would actually turn the wheel backwards to take advantage of a different sprocket that is more or less only stored on the left side of the hub. These ARE cheaper than the "Dual Drive" hubs, but I would rather use the proper hub for the job. I did not use a flip flop, but I talked to someone who HAS done it on a flip flop. How he did it was by welding a lockring to the sprocket and using a second lockring to keep it from backing off on acceleration.

Also, I have heard of people using Disc Brake hubs - that is another common hub in which you can get the same effect, and they are more common than these "Dual Drive" hubs.


Mine on the other hand, I just call this hub a Dual Drive hub, as you can accelerate the bike from the left or right side of the hub.

The hub was purchased from Staton-Inc, price tag at about 108$ to get it to my door.

The flange with the sprocket was from a BGF "HD Axle Kit". I disabled the springs and JB Welded the bearings, so that I now have a threaded sprocket that I don't need a pullstart for.

It is necessary to RED locktite the threads and tap it tight with a large screwdriver and hammer if you choose to take this same route of disabling the freewheel so as to not use a pullstart. The purpose of that is, when you compression start it torques the freewheel backwards - spinning it off. Without locktite, it will back off and cause damage to the bike! There is no chance of this happening once the motor is engaged, as the left side of the hub has left handed threads, when accelerating from the motor it will tighten it down.

If you have a pullstart, then by all means - leave that freewheel intact.


It's fairly simple enough to get everything going!

I'm not a fan of Grubee motors, but I do like that they sell two different HD Axle Kits. One is with a freewheeled sprocket, the other is just a threaded flange without a freewheel.
http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/HD Rear Axel kit.htm
Check out this link, there is Model 1 and Model 2.

I saw it last night, and I can't find it tonight to post a link! -_- There is a popular retailer who sells ONLY the flanges. Of course, I can't find them. Granted, they were the freewheeled flanges, but also, they are the only people I've seen that sell them standalone. I will continue to look for them and post here when I find them.
 
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>R.I.P.<
Staton Inc. Aluminum Dual Threaded Hub.
Born : 1 - 10 - 11
Died : 4 - 16 - 11

I was super stoked with it, but it died Friday afternoon. Pants caught in the chain at high speed, seized the chain and blew out the threads.

Back to square one - thinking about getting a rear disc brake wheel, and drilling out the sprocket to mount it to the hub.

I'll post pics tomorrow.
 
My solution to hub... it worked

I had same issue so I took Part of a BB bearing race (threaded) that matched left side hub threads ground lip off to fit flush and used a extra rear freewheel to thread on and hold inline. Then I welded inside and then outside, retaped threads... (don't really need to do outside id inside mind melded enough) then when I lined up sprocket I used two BB jam nuts to lock, one on each side.

I used 17"x2" M/C rim and 12g spokes with HD Bicycle 36h steel hub. Used sealed bearings (don't forget inner bearing spacer to sinc both bearing) smooth Ballanced uses 3.5" MC rear tire.

If you send me email I will send picture of system
davidstipek@msn.com

I am in Thailand, Chiang Mai(Northern) retired soI spend as little as I need to do my Toy's. I have found that recycling and using ingenuity have been my biggest help.

I am building my second Chopper it is using a Y-80 semi-automatic engine and hooks to raer axle a little differently. I have lowered seat 12" extended frame 18". Relocated pedal crank forward 18 1/2" (same leg throw as when seat original position). I retained original BB, using square axle on right side I attach by chain from dual chain gears to freewheel gear @ rear axle and to freewheel crank chainwheel. On left side of original BB I have option of freewheel gears Bicycle 18t, 20t, 22t, 24t. Or as I have done using M/C rear sprocket attached to 5 bolt freewheel and modified steel crank hub and threaded adapter I sent picture of. We cut arm off Hub so it won't BANG anything :)

In this application the 3 frewwwheels serve positive reasons
1. @ chaingear and crank to let feet coast when under Petrol Power.
2. @ Chain gear on left side of Original BB to let Engine freewheel when using pedals. Also if engine stops no need to find neutral or wreck bike... feet are on pedals so easy tomove to safe stopping location.

Remember this bike is kick start, and has no clutch. I have retained Neutral light and 2T oil light as I am using modified original 2T oil tank.

Bike originally had dynometer wheel driven 6V system and a rectifier to change AC to DC and charge M/C 6V battery. This is being removed to attach to Mag on Engine. Bike has full array of lighting and horn... Everthing a M/C has in lighting its got!

Questions... email me maybe I can help...

David
 

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Another Note...

You can even use "Band Belt" Brake as seen in picture. Huh will tread upto sprocket or locking jam nut and totally secure it.

I have added some pictures to help with first email... enjoy!

David
 

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Freewheels

If anyone needs I can get here then via DHL get to you in USA.

Pictures here show how we Made BB axle threaded adapter...

Also picture of 4/5 hole freewheel. I have used both both work great. no preference. Depended how much room I had to drill Chain gear. If you deside to use Motorcyle chain and gear (420) you can get exact to fit hub area of freewheel so no need to balance. I have welded and Bolted chain wheels to freewheel. Prefer bolt now so I can change tooth gear to fit what I want. MPH or torgue. Actually I use for MPH and have gone from Chiang Mai to Bangkok on 1 tank of petrol.... 2600 rpm @ 75 kph, could go faster but enjoying the looks as drivers speed up to gaze.... :)

David
 

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