Wheels Good deal for set of steel wheels

Fletch

Member
Local time
1:02 AM
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
281
Location
San Diego, CA
If anyone is looking for a new set of steel wheels, I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5FEC/ref=oss_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013VK1OA/ref=oss_product

I haven't got the engine running on it yet, but the difference between the steel and aluminum is night and day. They are much heavier duty and the bike has a more solid feel when riding than before...Probably a bit more bumpy, but at least I don't have to worry about hitting a pot-hole and bending a rim. They look good with my all black bike with black fenders too. Hopefully they'll hold up.
 
Links to Amazon may include affiliate code. If you click on an Amazon link and make a purchase, this forum may earn a small commission.
do you know what guage the spokes are and what rear hub is on it
 
I tossed those wheels because some spokes broke and I was sick of a coaster brake. I decided to invest in some good wheels and got some mavic ex-721 mountain bike rims and good sealed bearing freewheel hubs. Those rims are double walled and really **** strong! I feel much better at high speeds and going over holes now.
 
Steel not always the best thing

I think that the main problem with steel wheels is the fact that they don't stop very well. it is harder for your brake pads to get a "grip" on those rims than a good set of alloy rims. I would also check weather the spokes were strait pull or weather they have a cross in them.The spoke should tuck under the last spoke it crosses before it touches the rim. This will make a big difference in the life of the wheel.

I have been known to pay more for my spokes for one set of wheels then what those wheels cost. You usually get what you pay for in that kind of set up and wheels are worth just a bit more for security.

just my two cents

mike Frye
 
Mike,

What about truing the rim after you put the sprocket on? I did that with these new wheels but I feel uneasy about it. After I did that I had to make adjustments to the sprocket bolts because the chain was popping in one place.

So the sprocket threw the rim out of true, I trued the rim, then adjusted the sprocket while on the bike. I am going to have the wheel off tomorrow to put a freewheel sprocket on. If I put the wheel in the truing stand and it isn't true, I don't want to get stuck in this cycle of rim, sprocket, rim, sprocket. See I know that the sprocket can pull the rim out of true, but I don't know if it works the other way around? I basically don't like to mess with the spokes because I'm not sure of my truing competence. I can get it true, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it the best way or evenly. I don't want to throw the rim out of round in the process of truing it side to side. I hope all that makes sense because I'm kinda rambling.
 
I feel your pain

I had similar problems myself, so I built up a set of wheels that had a six bolt disk brake mount and got a adapter for my bike. he called it a "tophat" adapter and it worked OK but I did have to helecoil a few of the bolts because they stripped out.

I think the thing your going to need do is mount the drive ring first and make sure its right were you need it to be and then true your wheel on a stand because the drive cog will change the spoke tension.

A good place to check your technique is the late Gilbert Seldon's web-sight I don't have a link but he was the man.

Then give the bike a good ride around the block and listen to the spokes go "ting" and set into place. then take it off the bike a last time and re-true it. It should hold.


good luck,
Mike (A.K.A. Frye Bikes)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top